778 ignition 6 pin

It’s a long shot but I’m looking for a 6 pin ignition key number 778.

Bump for another look. 

What are you trying to do? You can move the wafers around to work with whatever key you have that slides into the cylinder.

Contact member rstnick. He can make keys from the number.

wrote:

What are you trying to do? You can move the wafers around to work with whatever key you have that slides into the cylinder.
 

I have looked at an ignition and dont see a way to disassemble the key switch. Have you? If so can you give me a few pointers.

Mikaw, it’s been a while. I’ve done ignition, gas cap and helmet locks. Maybe a dozen times.
There is a tiny tab holding the cylinder in the lock body. It’s in the back of the lock. It is small and may be hiding under a blop of grease. I used a tiny flat precision screwdriver to move it. It was easy to do once I figured how.
I had the key to the lock so I was able to have it in the unlock position. I think.
If this doesn’t help, post up, I have another ignition laying around somewhere and can take a picture of where it is.

Are you looking for a six-pin ignition key, number 778, or a six-pin ignition, key number 778?

Ok, it was bugging me that I couldn’t remember so here’s some pictures of a gas cap lock. The ignition is the same situation. 
Im not sure what orders the pics will come out. Suffice it to say that I had to remove a few pieces to get to the back of the cylinder. One I had to unscrew, the other two pulled out with long nose pliers.
The cylinder comes out with or without a key.

The fourth pic shows the cylinder and the two parts I had to pull out to get at it. The piece I had to unscrew (not shown) was the locking tangs that grabs the filler hole.

The third pic shows the cylinder locking tab from the top.

The bottom pic shows what you’re looking at once you remove those two pieces. Notice there’s a shiny looking brass sliver. It’s held in position by spring tension.
You use a small screwdriver (shown in another pic) or something pointy to slide it into the cylinder. While holding it in you push the cylinder out through the front of the lock.

The fourth pic down at the point of the pen shows what that tab looks like. That’s the same tab you have to find on the ignition. You’ll have to pull parts off if it’s not readily visible to the eye. A good light helps.
And do it in a foil pan to catch parts from escaping or you’ll be chasing them on your living room floor such as what I just did.

I realize the pics didn’t load in sensible order so my description may be confusing but if you have any questions I’ll be happy to confuse you more.

 

wrote:

Are you looking for a six-pin ignition key, number 778, or a six-pin ignition, key number 778?

I’m looking for an ignition, mainly 77-80 Kz1000 and Kz 400 but don’t know the years for the 400, that has a 6 pin connector and keyed to 778 key. I have the steering lock and seat lock in 778. I was hoping to get an ignition to make a set.

wrote:

wrote:

Are you looking for a six-pin ignition key, number 778, or a six-pin ignition, key number 778?

I’m looking for an ignition, mainly 77-80 Kz1000 and Kz 400 but don’t know the years for the 400, that has a 6 pin connector and keyed to 778 key. I have the steering lock and seat lock in 778. I was hoping to get an ignition to make a set.

Got it. I mistakenly thought you were looking for a key.

Blipco, I have an ignition I’ll look to see if it’s similar to disassemble. Thank you

Here what I have found. Once the black terminal plate was removed, and the actuator taken out I found the core riveted to the brass housing.


Drilled out the rivets and pulled the brass housing off the core


Poked and probed around, Figured I need a key, which I didn’t have, tried to pick it and in the process found a spring loaded wafer at the back of the core. At first I thought it was just to index and control degrees of rotation, which it does but it’s also the way the center plug is held in the core. I retracted it and pushed the plug out of the core.  See red arrow pointing to the locking wafer. 




I played with the plug but didn’t have any luck removing the wafers. Who know how to remove them and tell what bit size they are. I messed around with trying to drill out the rivets without luck. I can see a separation line in the bore I drilled but can’t get the rivet out, that will be another day once I know I can swap wafers around to key to a 778. Any input is welcomed.