TOPIC:

After sitting over night with penetrant and a little heat, success, it reluctantly came off. Now the question is if it's possible that a starter assembly and or rotor can be fitted to that crankshaft ?  Or will I have to keep legging it. Any help appreciated.

Forgot to mention the crankshaft end is smooth all around, no woodroof key slot.

urankjj wrote:

Forgot to mention the crankshaft end is smooth all around, no woodroof key slot.

Interestingly on CMNSL the B2 onwards doesn't show a woodruff key on the parts diagram ?? (VW and Audi among others rely on just the taper without a key for camshaft sprockets ??)

The 650/750 engine crank ends do not have a key, its really not an issue if you tighten the end bolt to FSM specs. The difference here is the starter clutch is bundled on that end. Kawasaki must have found that they could eliminate the key on later model cranks.

I believe it's a KZ 1000 MK 2 crank. Unfortunately I don't have any paperwork about the crank swap from back then. I do still have the original, ( 77 kz 1000A ) crankshaft and the starter gears and rotor, but I don't know if they'll work with a MK 2 crank.

urankjj wrote:

I believe it's a KZ 1000 MK 2 crank. Unfortunately I don't have any paperwork about the crank swap from back then. I do still have the original, ( 77 kz 1000A ) crankshaft and the starter gears and rotor, but I don't know if they'll work with a MK 2 crank.

I guess with no "key" the angle of the taper will be crucial to ensure enough friction

urankjj wrote:

I believe it's a KZ 1000 MK 2 crank. Unfortunately I don't have any paperwork about the crank swap from back then. I do still have the original, ( 77 kz 1000A ) crankshaft and the starter gears and rotor, but I don't know if they'll work with a MK 2 crank.

What size is the bolt ?
If it is a 10mm thread then it is a pre MK2/ST Z1000 crank with 22mm taper and will take the small 900/1000 rotor that matches the crank taper and those alt windings.
If it is a 12mm thread then it is MK2/ST with 25mm taper and will need the MK2/ST dished rotor with 25mm taper and the finned alt cover with matching windings.

Thank you Zed, that is very helpful. Haven't checked the size yet but a different alt cover is not an option for the old A1. 

urankjj wrote:

Thank you Zed, that is very helpful. Haven't checked the size yet but a different alt cover is not an option for the old A1. 

Why not? I found the later cover to being kinda sexy and the alternator might put out more power than the early Z1/1000's. 
"Scotty I need more power!" "My bearings my poor poor bearings."  

Steve
 

Given that the earlier rotor has the smaller taper is it not an option to machine the original rotor to fit the larger taper of the later crank ?

A simple check of the teeth on your camshafts will determine if you have a MK2 crank.  If you have 32 teeth it's a MK2 crank.  If you have 30 teeth it's a regular KZ1000 crank.

It sounds like you have two options.  One is to replace the crank with your original one, but if the current crank is a MK2 then you would have to change your camshaft gears back to 30 tooth.  Or you can look around for a MK2 rotor.  

I don't know for sure but I think the starter will be the same for a MK2 engine and a KZ1000.  I have the engine but have never had the starter out.  I need to do it someday as it's dragging a bit and needs cleaning and new brushes but that's a job for another day.

Is the 25mm taper crank the one that is commonly referred to as “big pin” I’ve heard the term but never knew 100% sure what exactly what was being described