TOPIC:

Hey all, I'm finally getting around to hopefully getting my KZ back on the street. It was built as a race motor and is kick start only. I would like to get the electric starter functioning again if that is possible ? Currently there is no starter or starter/ rotor assembly (no charging system) under the left engine case. (I think). I believe we installed a Mark 2 crank and I want to verify that, but that engine case seems to be fused on. It's probably been about 35 yrs since it was last removed so that may have something to do with it. Anyway is there a trick or some easy way to get that cover off ? I definitely don't want to try prying anything. Thanks ahead. 

I just tap mine with a rubber mallet.  

Thanks, I will grab one at the depot and give that a try.

I was actually able to locate a Craftsman # 2 rubber mallet that I still have. After numerous attempts of very heavy tapping it is still not breaking loose. I will try some light bulb heat on the cover over night and then resume tapping 2marrow.

You might also want to try applying a penetrant like PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. and let that sit overnight. It may be more effective than the light bulb heat.

You're sure you have ALL the fasteners loose, right?

Will do with the penetrent, need to get more Kroil. Yes all screws loose. ?

Is it possible to pass a piece of broomhandle through the starter opening and tap from the inside out, once the seal is broken it should come away. You could also try pouring some acetone over the joint which may soften the gasket/sealer (I assume it is probably holding on "dowls" does the manual identify where they are located)

Your best bet is a dead blow hammer  .( Full of lead shot )
It wont leave any marks  
Hit the cover in all areas  other than forcing it on further  ( Does that make sense )
Then wiggle it like a mad man
Dave

urankjj wrote:

Yes all screws loose. ?
 

Okay then

When I changed that cover last summer (the old peeling chrome one had been on there for 35 years) I ended up carefully using my heat gun on its lowest setting and light to medium raps around the perimeter (at right angles to the bolt direction) with a plastic covered deadblow hammer to break the gasket grip.  There are also a couple of locating dowels in there to fight you.  Patience and persistence is the key.

A few good whacks with a soft mallet will eventually shift it.
The locating dowels at the 1 and 6 o'clock positions are the areas that will be holding it and where you should pay most attention.

Thank you, I did notice that on some of the replacement gasket diagrams they showed a 9th screw hole that must be a dowel pin hole and not a screw hole.