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great link,thanks.carb and electrics would be my questions,how much zx7 stuff is necessary,opposed oi my stock gpz stuff.thanjs again.

marka1373 wrote: great link,thanks.carb and electrics would be my questions,how much zx7 stuff is necessary,opposed oi my stock gpz stuff.thanjs again.

gpz750 carbs and their boots should bolton.

Ignition is a bit more tricky, depends if yourgpz has double pickup or single... ended up modyfying the zr7 rotor and running a gpz550 box i had lying around.

Pm me if you need more info

I'm glad to see this thread bumped back to the top because I have a couple of questions.

I put a ZR7 oil pan w/relief valve on my 750E so I could add an oil cooler. I'm concerned about oil pressure issues now and would like to measure the oil pressure. Does anyone know the thread specs for the the oil galley port on the RH lower side of the engine?

This talk about the 750E and ZR7 oil pressure relief valve being different makes me wonder if I made a mistake. I've found a cheap ZR7 oil pump that could be added but I don't want to increase oil pressure for fear of head gasket leaks. I could always swap the 750E relief valve back in too. At any rate, I figure measuring oil pressure would be a good place to start.

With the zr-7 pressure relief valve you will run the risk of over pressurizing the system rather than under, so checking your oil pressure may not provide much information you are looking for. But it is nice to confirm that your oil pressure is within specs of 28-36psi, but the relief won't pop until 63+ psi....or much higher for the zr-7 valve. On cold mornings is the greatest risk of over pressuring the system especially if you use Rotella T 15w40 like I do. I would switch out the relief valve for the stock one as soon as the riding season gets cold.

Here are the best pictures I could get of the oil galley plug size and thread

the zr7 uses all the same gaskets as a kz750 and yet cant see it (or other zr7s) springing leaks all around

if you are that worried, would simply replace the relief valve in the zr7 sump with your original one, but IMHO you are worrying for nothing.
dont forget that the oil feeds to the head have jets that limit max flow and pressure quite a bit...

the main advantage of the bigger zr7 pump is of course when oil is really really hot and pressure drops big time. i once rode around the bike with the pressure gauge attached and it was quite worrying how low pressure gets in really hot weather under stress.

turboguzzi wrote: the zr7 uses all the same gaskets as a kz750 and yet cant see it (or other zr7s) springing leaks all around

if you are that worried, would simply replace the relief valve in the zr7 sump with your original one, but IMHO you are worrying for nothing.
dont forget that the oil feeds to the head have jets that limit max flow and pressure quite a bit...

the main advantage of the bigger zr7 is of course when oil is really really hot and pressure drops big time. i once rode around the bike with the pressure gauge attached and it was quite worrying how low pressure gets in really hot weather under stress.

Thanks for the perspective. You make a fabulous point, which obviously is based on actual experience which is invaluable. Thanks to Daftrusty as well. I haven't gotten around to fitting up the gauge yet but will.

It's nice to find so much love and knowledge for the 650/750's on this site.

Turbo sent you a pm when you get a chance

emailed you back but here it is in case you didnt get it

here you go

as you can see, i simply grounded the zr7 rotor to the shape of the gpz550 rotor and used the gpz550 pickups

not as easy as it looks because with the zr7 rotor in it's normal position on the crank, the triggering bump is in the wrong place...

so i ground off one of the spline's teeths in the rotor with a dremel stone, that let me rotate the rotor phasing on the crank to get the bump in the right position

not a huge deal for me to dismount the rotor and take for you a picture of the rotor mod, just let me know

TG