Rutt-Ro KZ550c!

So I have had my '82 KZ550C for over a year now with no out of the norm problems. I finally pulled the motor out to reseal the thirty year old gaskets as they were bleeding everywhere. I bought the complete engine gasket kit, so while having it apart, I honed the cylinders lightly (as little to no cross hatches were present) and lapped the valves. Upon putting her back together and firing it up, I have a disturbing noise coming from what sounds like the bottom end chain. Best way to describe it is it sounds like a combination of a horrible exhaust leak and a morocco.

All through the manual it says not to allow the cam chain to drop down into the motor as damage could be caused. I was successful at completing this task all the way up to installing the first cam back in the motor. It was easily fished back out of the bottom of the motor with a coat hanger with what I thought was no harm. Then when going to install the second cam, there wasn't enough slack in the chain for it to fit. So i gave the chain a solid tug and the needed slack was created. I didn't realize this pulled #1 off of TDC until I went to install the plugs, so I tore it back apart and re-timed everything. All was fine, or so I thought, until I fired it up and heard that mayhem.

So my question is, what damage could be done to the motor if the cam chain slipped down the case and the motor was turned over? I only spun the motor over by hand and clockwise (or in the same direction as the wheels if you would), so at the least little bit of resistance I stopped before what I thought any damage could have been done. My next plan of attack I guess is to drop the oil pan and have a look see into the bottom end. Are there chain guides in the bottom end that could have slipped? Could the gears for the oil pump have shifted? Is there an adjustment for tension on the chain for the crank/gearbox?

Much appreciated in advance for any advice.

Where's LoudVHX when you need him....

Just dropping the chain down the galley shouldn't do any damage what so ever...

Too tight & tug, uhm not sure on that one... Easy shimmy to get the chain into the crank gear should be simple enough...

Didn't see any mention of Timing Chain adjuster after cam installation was accomplished.... You Possibly jumped a tooth would be my first guess...

Pop the valve cover off for cam shaft lobe aim to head decking, will inform if your off a gear...

Example in my first build... Jumped a tooth where I rotated prior to installing the tensioner.
It happens... :pinch:

NOTE:
This is a KZ900 so may slightly differ then yours but theory still applies...
Right side of bike, intake cam not aligned with head decking.
AT TDC 1/4, timing chain adjuster out... Note the slack in left image...

Thanks OMR. I believe the problem is in the bottom end. As far as the tensioner,I installed a manual tensioner on the rebuild. No tension was on the cam chain until everything else was already assembled. The bike fires right up and runs (for the brief moment I allowed it to run) just fine for there to be a timing issue. I did pop off the valve cover and recheck the timing to insure that was not the problem.

And because I know how well received pictures are around here... The first was of the teardown and rebuild. The second is of the Redneck Rocket in all of her glory.

Gotta sleep sometime.

But OMR is right on. I've dropped a cam chain or two while poking aorund with the cams/shims. You just fish it out. It shouldn't be a problem if you get it all out. It doesn't matter if the chain jumps, you will re-time it anyway.

However, as OMR also said, you have to pay very close attention to what you are doing with the camchain tensioner. On the 550, the valve cover is part of the guide system, and if it's not in place the tensioner takes up extra slack. Then when you bolt the cover down, the chain has way too much tension. You should have the tensioner released while working and installing the cover, then install the tensioner (or the crosswedge, spring, and cap if didn't remove the whole tensioner) last.

Also, check my signature for the valve train warning. That page has a shit load of info for 550 cams. It also has better drawings for the cam timing. Some of the manuals are vague and have errors.

Also grab all of the manuals from my signature.

Loudhvx, thanks for all of your information, as I have utilized the links in your signature a number of times. I have been poking my head around the site since I bought the bike over a year ago. I just didn't feel as though I had enough experience to add my possibly misinformed 2 cents, so i have kept quiet.

Like I have said, I believe the problem is in the lower end of the motor. I was curious as to what the cam chain could have possibly gotten hung up on when trying to fish it back up to the top. All through the manual they say damage can occur if the cam chain is not kept taunt out the top of the motor. Are they referring to damage to the cam chain and/or sprocket, or is there some clearance issuse with other rotating parts on the bottom end of the motor?

I can't imagine what they mean by damage. I'm pretty sure I've even walked the chain around the crank end after dropping the slack end down the tunnel. I just pull it back out and make sure it's not folded up down there. That just means wiggling the crank back and forth a tiny bit and the chain will usually just pop back up into place.

If the camchain is back up and timed correctly, I don't think there is anyway that it can be interfereing with the primary chain. (They are near each other, but those chains have no side play.)

Maybe one of the guides did break and dropped down the tunnel?

Macabe96 wrote: Are there chain guides in the bottom end that could have slipped?

I'm pretty sure there are none in the bottom.

Macabe96 wrote: Could the gears for the oil pump have shifted?

I can't imagine, but not sure.

Macabe96 wrote: Is there an adjustment for tension on the chain for the crank/gearbox?

The primary chain has no adustment. It just gets replaced. Not easy.
Most motors will get that primary slap noise when it's cold and first starts up. But usually goes away after warmup, unless the carbs are way out of sync (they need to be re-synced anytime they are removed).
Every 550 motor I have makes the clunky sound at first, cold startup, but the sound goes away pretty quickly. It sounds like clunk, not marachas.

So that doesn't sound like what you are describing, and if it wasn't there before, then it's not normal.

I agree with the oil pan check.

Here's another possible thought? Comparing this to an automobile motor, when an intake gasket goes, and coolant leaks into the crankcase, there is an obvious sloshing noise from too much fluid in the crankcase contacting the crankshaft. If too much oil was added (which was the case as i was waiting to see it appear in the sight glass and overfilled) would that excess oil coming in contact with the primary chain cause such a racket?

I checked the cam chain guides and they all appear to be lined up with the chain. I dropped the oil pan and no mystery parts were sitting in the bottom of it. The gears on the oil pump look healthy, and the cam chain is aligned on the sprocket. What I did notice is that the visible side of the primary chain from the bottom has a fair amount of slack in it. I did not know if this was part of the design the fling oil or evidence that the chain is worn out. The bike has almost 29,000 miles on it, of which I have contributed to about 8,000 of them.

The primary chain, I believe, runs through oil all the time. I have overfilled a little on occasion and have not had any strange noises.

At this point, I think I would triple check the timing and pin count between camshafts.

How about the tach drive? Did you pull it out when installing the cams?
That thing always manages to interfere. I remove it completely and use electronic tach if any at all, but at the least, I would absolutely remove it before installing the cam. There is enough to juggle when installing the cam without forgetting the tach gear and have that bind up on the cam.

I realize you say the noise is down low, and I'm giving suggestions up top, but short of something falling down there, I can't imagine what would make that noise, unless something broke loose.

Sometimes it seems all you need to do is take it back apart and reassemble. I did just that and the problem was remedied. My conclusion was that I did not have enough tension on the cam chain. During the rebuild I installed the manual tensioner, and there was no clear directions as to how much tension was needed. So I guess with that being said, how do you determine that proper amount of tension?

Thanks for all the help and super quick responses!

Did the manual tensioner come with instructions?
The spring on the automatic ones does not push forward with much force.