Starter clutch issues to check?

A quick tip,, The "idler gear" which is the inner componant of the starter clutch "sprag" often develops "waves" on the face which the rollers engage. if there is any dicernable wear there, replace as well as rollers & springs (3 each). luck G . PS, In reading, your' stator bolt is discontinued. if in your' searches you see one, nab it..G

good avice bros....

thanks!

i have my KZ up on my cycle stand(260bux at harbor freight) best purchase i have made in a long time...anyway so the oil still leaks pretty well when cover is removed...bout a half QT still leaks and i straped down and CENTERED...
so ill pull the left cover off this weekend and see what it all looks like..and pop that flywheel

ill look for the oil filter also...and hit up Z1 next week for parts needed

thanx all

The left hand thread bolt threads into the end of the crankshaft and the flanged head holds the flywheel/rotor onto the taper on the crankshaft (click on picture to enlarge)


The larger diameter threads in the end of the flywheel/rotor are right hand and are the same size (at least on the 79 750 twin) as the rear axle.

The oil filter is under the finned cover at the top right.

The axle installed and one way of holding the flywheel/rotor for removal. Resists clockwise rotation.


When tightening the LH thread bolt, the end of the screwdriver goes to the bottom of the flywheel/rotor. Resists counter-clockwise rotation.

Good luck,
Jim

Hi all,
I've had starter issues: the typical can of rocks noise, and the starter only engaging some of the time, etc. so I was convinced it was my starter clutch. Now that I've pulled the clutch and inspected it, I don't see any major issues or differences to the brand new one I bought. Can a starter clutch be bad without having any physical damage visible? I'm going to put the new one in for good measure, but I'm concerned that I may not solve the issue, and would have to crack open the bottom end again to find the real problem. I'd rather get it right the first time, and get riding... Any thoughts? Thanks.

Hi Caleb,

Look very closely at the springs and cups that push the rollers against the boss. Chances are that one or more is worn/chipped/cracked or crushed. Generally replacing the rollers, springs and cups will get the clutch working again, although to work as good as new the boss/ sprocket needs to be replaced also.

Good Luck

Bill

Take a look at the starter clutch diagram below. Are there any pieces in that diagram that you do NOT plan to replace? Ed

Look at the spring lengths. Most likely if there is no noticable physical damage the springs are loose and not applying the same force to engage the clutch. When I replaced mine they were a little bit shorter but compressed easier.

Yeah, I pulled the springs out of the old clutch and they seem weaker than the new ones. Hopefully this does the trick. I did notice a bit of slack or wiggle between the inner and outer coupling where the main chain drives the secondary shaft. Is it normal to have a little play (2mm of travel) here? Or should I go ahead and order new rubber dampers? I appreciate the quick responses. I'm pretty new to working on bikes, thanks for your patience.

I'll try once more .....

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/432739-st...heck?start=20#631683

Thanks, Ed. I've replaced 13193, I am not replacing 12406, the teeth show no signs of wear, it is straight and solid.

If is was mine and I was going through the trouble of replacing the other pieces I would also replace 12406. I suggest you at least check it VERY carefully before deciding not to replace it. It isn't the teeth that are a problem The problem is the race that the rollers engage. Take a look at the images below and notice the wear on a used part compared to the surface on a new old stock part. Those ridges on the surface of the used part cause the starter clutch to slip even with new rollers, so check to see if yours looks like the used part or the new part. Ed