TOPIC:

One of the reasons I decided to put these switches was that the horn button was going south. It sucks when a Suburban cuts you off and you don't have a horn. Then just a few minutes later it works fine when you accidentally bump it hitting the turn signal.

I also figured out one of my horns isn't working.

Well it looks like that didn't go quite as planned . I was already trying to address a R/R issue .

Hopefully, I have everything on the way to address these issues so it looks like I'm grounded for a bit.

Hey there,
I am curious as I had looked at some various aftermarket handlebar controls too. Did your controls come with multi-pin connectors that were directly compatible with the KZ loom's ? You mentioned wishing you had a wiring diagram which made me wonder why?

I cannot say for certain because I don't know the aftermarket wiring configuration but the stock left hand control requires a ground thru the handlebar in order for the horn to work. The circuit is voltage through horn to grip-button and when you press it, it grounds to the bar which if it's like mine (your bars) are powder coated and preventing the grip from getting ground... no horn result for me. I had to scrape the powder coating off a bit at the control where a metal tab squeezes to the metal of the bar.

wrenchmonkey wrote: Hey there,
I am curious as I had looked at some various aftermarket handlebar controls too. Did your controls come with multi-pin connectors that were directly compatible with the KZ loom's ? You mentioned wishing you had a wiring diagram which made me wonder why?

I cannot say for certain because I don't know the aftermarket wiring configuration but the stock left hand control requires a ground thru the handlebar in order for the horn to work. The circuit is voltage through horn to grip-button and when you press it, it grounds to the bar which if it's like mine (your bars) are powder coated and preventing the grip from getting ground... no horn result for me. I had to scrape the powder coating off a bit at the control where a metal tab squeezes to the metal of the bar.

It came with a four pin connector and 2 male bullet connectors that I cut off and spliced to a 9 pin connector I got at a salvage yard. The horn was working fine, it's the switch that crapped out. On my bike the horn has a ground wire and the new switch works great. You might just want to wire a ground yourself.

I bought this unit off Amazon and it didn't have any documentation at all. Someone posted a wiring description in the questions area but it was wrong for the unit I got. I blew a fuse and fried a digital flasher unit figuring out which wires go where. I had to pull apart the signal switch before I got it right.

Apparently, they assume these will go on bikes that have headlight relays and don't use heavy enough switches to take the load of high beam. I'm going to put the headlights on their own 20 amp circuit and use mini relays. I did this same thing for a 79 F150 I had.

I got one from z1partsinc. The two bullet connectors are for the horn and passing light. I've been thinking on getting a pair of small high output LED's so I can wake up the morons sitting at a stop deciding to go or not.
Steve

swest wrote: I got one from z1partsinc. The two bullet connectors are for the horn and passing light. I've been thinking on getting a pair of small high output LED's so I can wake up the morons sitting at a stop deciding to go or not.
Steve

I'm going to do that with the extra switch on the other side.

It's been great reading this thread. Good work!

I plan on getting back to my own GPz750 project soon, and I have a question for you. What did you do to fit the Dyna coils in the factory coil locations? When I put mine in, the tank didn't clear. I thought the easiest thing would be to rotate the mounting points 90 deg, but I hadn't gotten to actually figuring out how.

Mine will fit one way. The other, they will hit the tank.
Steve

swest wrote: Mine will fit one way. The other, they will hit the tank.
Steve

Ah, so I should just rotate them 180, and have the wire connectors face toward the middle?

SonicVenum wrote:

swest wrote: Mine will fit one way. The other, they will hit the tank.
Steve

Ah, so I should just rotate them 180, and have the wire connectors face toward the middle?

there wouldn't be room that way. If you look at pics on the second page of this thread I used some left over stainless sheet to fashion mounts so the connectors are outwards to the rear. I reach under the tank when its mounted and feel that the cable boots are touching the tank but it isn't putting undue pressure on them.

Some have suggested turning them so the outlets face forward. I've seen others mount them so the outlets face downwards.

It's worked OK for me so far and I can always rotate them if it becomes an issue.

GPzMOD750 wrote: there wouldn't be room that way. If you look at pics on the second page of this thread I used some left over stainless sheet to fashion mounts so the connectors are outwards to the rear. I reach under the tank when its mounted and feel that the cable boots are touching the tank but it isn't putting undue pressure on them.

Some have suggested turning them so the outlets face forward. I've seen others mount them so the outlets face downwards.

It's worked OK for me so far and I can always rotate them if it becomes an issue.

Ah crap... I should pay more attention. I saw those pics, and didn't realize you had already modified to mounting points. Ok, thanks for the help!

SonicVenum wrote:

GPzMOD750 wrote: there wouldn't be room that way. If you look at pics on the second page of this thread I used some left over stainless sheet to fashion mounts so the connectors are outwards to the rear. I reach under the tank when its mounted and feel that the cable boots are touching the tank but it isn't putting undue pressure on them.

Some have suggested turning them so the outlets face forward. I've seen others mount them so the outlets face downwards.

It's worked OK for me so far and I can always rotate them if it becomes an issue.

Ah crap... I should pay more attention. I saw those pics, and didn't realize you had already modified to mounting points. Ok, thanks for the help!

No problem there are many threads on the site regarding the mounting of Dyna green coils. I think most just use something like eye bolts to mount them using the factory mounts and have the outlets face down. I probably would have done it that way if I didn't have the left over material from the fender delete.