TOPIC:

Hmm and another thing - it looks like gaskets have been used in lots of random places (between the carb boots and engine etc). The latest one has been between the cam chain tensioner and the engine block.

Below is an image of it:



Signs of bigger issues?

Yeh that makes sense. And the 2mm excess? Only means that the chain tension becomes tighter right?

If the spring is just slightly longer than the spec, I wouldn't worry about it. Shorter would be an issue. Really the spring pressure spec at a given length would be a much better spec to have and check. But that's not supplied as far as I know.

Great - thanks.

So now its just continuing to wait on the torque wrenches =]

A very noob question - how should I be "storing" this engine? I've been leaving the alternator and left cylinder head cover open for about a week now. I've noticed the engine oil has evapourated from the covers - will this happen to the engine as well? I'm assuming that's not a big issue as I will be replacing it, but should I be covering all the holes up to prevent dust etc from falling inside?

I've definitely left the spark plug hole and intake manifold hole open for quiet a while. The bike is sitting indoors within my house, but as you saw from the previous pictures, random debris seems to sit on the engine...

Put the Spark plug back in, and a rag or something over the intake. Try to keep all of it clean, and sealed in some way. A large plastic bag and some tape might do it.
now are you going to pull the head and the cylinder block to sort out the lousy compression?

Ha - that seems to be a bit of a contentious issue. After taking the camshaft sprocket off and looking through the maintenance section, it seems like I could continue to disassemble and carry out the various tasks listed...

But for now, I will wait for torque wrench to come and adjust the valve clearance first, in an attempt to get it running. For now, that seems to be the biggest culprit to my lack of compression no?

I imagine that's why all I'm finding all these gaskets everywhere as well? I'm pretty sure kawasaki didn't use them...

G'Day Sham,
Waiting for a torque wrench for valve adjustment? Did you buy some feeler gauges? These are whats necessary. You need to set the clearance, a feeler gauge is used between the rocker arm adjustment screw tip and the tip of the valve stem. But just to recheck your compression readings, you could put the motor at Top Dead Center (TDC) compression stroke, that's when the pressure is pushing out the spark plug hole. Then with your "T" mark lined up so you know you're on TDC. Check the gap on both valves. You could just loosen the lock nut for the adjustment screw, then turn the adjuster in, clock-wise till it just makes contact. Then back it out 1/4 turn. Then take your fingers on the rocker arm and move it up and down. you should feel a slight movement, a light tap tap. Then you can try your compression test again. Make sure your battery is fully charged, throttle held open. First dry, then with a spoon full of motor oil down the plug hole, wet, try it again. See if the numbers come up to over 100 psi. If not, do you have access to an air compressor?

Hey Motor Head,

Yeh I measured the gaps last week I think, and they were much too big, but my feeler gauges weren't accurate enough. I have bought a set with 32 blades rather than 10 this time round, and they'll get here with the torque wrench.

I'll try putting my fingers on the rocker tonight - I imagine this is similar to the motion it makes as the valves go through the cycles?

I bought some engine oil today, so once the filter comes I'll do a change. Hopefully along with the valve adjustments that will get me somewhere.

So torque wrench finally came along with the dad - for some reason it didn't want to work yesterday, maybe I was too tired or something, but worked a treat today.

Got the valve clearance fixed, installed the new oil filter and gave it an oil change - the stuff that was coming out was black...

Battery is now charging again - its on 12.2 which is around 50% according to the charts - then it will be compression time again.

Fingers crossed.

Wow - so just did a dry compression test after an oil change and having readjusted the valve clearance.



105 PSI!

So I'm 15 PSI off the minimum, but I'm pretty optimistic.

Question - if my battery is dipping under 50% a couple hours after a charge (reading approx 12.15V), is this likely to be a factor in my engine compression?

I am planning to do a wet test tomorrow to see if the numbers will go up.

What do you guys think? Nearly there?

Put a spoon full of motor oil down the plug hole and then re-check the compression, don't forget to open the throttle fully. With that compression it will at least run. It may have some carbon build up under the valves etc, that once running it may improve a bit more.
Might as well see if you can get it to run, then see if it uses oil or knocks, has all the gears, etc.

I do not think the charging system has any thing to do with compression. You may have something draining the battery with the key off. Mfolks is the electrical guru here so maybe he will chime in