TOPIC:

Wow. That's cool.

I see a potential problem with the length of the swing arm; the chain will start sawing through it if there will be a lot of dips and bumps in the road. I'd suggest an idler sprocket on the top and maybe the bottom, keeping the chain away from the Aluminum swing arm.

MFolks wrote: I see a potential problem with the length of the swing arm; the chain will start sawing through it if there will be a lot of dips and bumps in the road. I'd suggest an idler sprocket on the top and maybe the bottom, keeping the chain away from the Aluminum swing arm.

I was waiting for someone to ask about that. If you look at the bottom part of the chain you will see that it is going to cut the frame in half this is true,if I leave it that way but I do have a reason for it being like that. I had to leave it like that so I could transfer the foot peg hole location into my outboard bearing support plate but I could not do that until I built the support plate so I cut just enough of the frame away to do the plate and still leave a foot peg hole so I could tranfer the location to the support plate. Now that the plate is done I wil tranfer the hole location and cut the frame up higher and finish boxing out the frame on the bottom side, the top is perfect I have taken the shock out and put a jack under the swingarm and raised it up and down to check for any clearance issues all good,but I did have plans to put a roller hidden behind the outboard bearing support.

mark1122 wrote: Well done. i bet u have a plan for a nice lookin lid for that too.

Thanks Mark, Ya I am going to cut a clear polycarbonate window, should look pretty cool

531blackbanshee wrote: oh !

no you dent !

those are going to be cooler than the other side of my pillow .

i cant wait to see the finished product.

got any idea what i want to ask you

keep up the good work mike this is going to be one sick a$$ed bike.

leon

Ya I have an idea of what you want to ask and I have not given it much thought. I make parts for this old girl because its my getaway from the everyday grind of the busa's and gsx-r's if I started making these parts and selling them it just wouldnt be fun anymore it would be just another part to sell.

it's cool man i understand.

they aren't one off parts if everybody and their kid sister have em .

top notch work tho as always.

leon

perhaps the ignition window would look good tinted a color instead of clear? And put some LEDs inside to light everything up...maybe?

Nelson wrote: perhaps the ignition window would look good tinted a color instead of clear? And put some LEDs inside to light everything up...maybe?

I have done tinted ones before the look good, as far a lights I am not a fan of unnessary lights and I really hate flashing blue ones LOL

rslingshot wrote:

Nelson wrote: perhaps the ignition window would look good tinted a color instead of clear? And put some LEDs inside to light everything up...maybe?

I have done tinted ones before the look good, as far a lights I am not a fan of unnessary lights and I really hate flashing blue ones LOL

Just use a set of dirty old points in there and they should make some lighting of their own.

rslingshot wrote:

mark1122 wrote: Well done. i bet u have a plan for a nice lookin lid for that too.

Thanks Mark, Ya I am going to cut a clear polycarbonate window, should look pretty cool

i have a fair bit experience with Polycarbonate (Lexan). it scratches very easily and is not very UV resistant,so it will eventually turn yellow in color.
Acrylic (Plexiglass) would be a better choice, as it is more scratch resistant, but i'm not up on its UV properties.
Hope this helps.
Mark.

mark1122 wrote:

rslingshot wrote:

mark1122 wrote: Well done. i bet u have a plan for a nice lookin lid for that too.

Thanks Mark, Ya I am going to cut a clear polycarbonate window, should look pretty cool

i have a fair bit experience with Polycarbonate (Lexan). it scratches very easily and is not very UV resistant,so it will eventually turn yellow in color.
Acrylic (Plexiglass) would be a better choice, as it is more scratch resistant, but i'm not up on its UV properties.
Hope this helps.
Mark.

This is true I have used both, but there is a plastic called ULTEM that is made by GE plastics that is better for high heat,gas and oil applications I can by it in sheets at one time it was only avalible in a amber color I think but now you can get it clear. I have injection molded it before it is a good plastic very tough.

i used to work for ge plastics, still do, but GE sold the division, so it is now called SABIC Inovative Plastics. i actualy made Lexan,and Ultem sheet.we did not make the clear ultem at our site though,just Lexan. i havent even seen clear ultem in sheeet form, just injection molded products. that suonds like a great sullution for your aplication.