TOPIC:

Okay, I have posted a few other times in other topics but this time I have a value question.

I am considering buying a 1982 KZ550 LTD with about 23K miles on it. The bike runs well but has a little trouble starting up. Probably need to do some fine tuning with the carbs. Other than that, there are few issues with this well-running bike.

1. Both the front and rear tires are checked and will need replacing.
2. The seat has sun damage and is cracked along many seams, it will need to be replaced or it will get soaked anytime it rains.
3. The rear sprockets have a bit of a hook to them because the bike was run with the chain too loose.
4. Rust in the gas tank, but I think I could fix this with some Por-15 sealant.

Those are the biggest issues. Other than that there are some cosmetic problems, but none too major. Spotted rust on the chrome areas, deteriorated paint on some parts that were replaced when the bike was laid down. With some time and money, mostly time, the bike could look much nicer.

I am wondering, how much should I pay for this bike. It was a $750 obo, but the guy dropped to 650 once i went out there to take a look. As it stands, it seems like I would be dropping at least $300 to fix the techinical issues, so the overall cost seems a bit steep. What would be a good, fair price, based on the things it needs done to it?


Thanks for any help


C. Tupper

Offer $300, much larger bikes can be had for just as much...

Do you want it ot just want it, or do you have plans for it. If you're gonna get a 550, save for a GPz550. They're a lot more fun.
How many miles on the odometer?
Sounds like the bike hasn't been ridden in a while, and it's been sitting outside.

Note*( this is the largest bike that I can ride. I am about 5'9" and 140 lbs. This is really my upper limit as far as size goes.

And... the guy offering it is being very generous as far as information goes, and said that if it craps out on me within a month or two then to call him and he will work something out with me, and he said he would help me fix some of the stuff on the bike. I don't know if this changes anything, but I don't think he will go for 300. That is what he got it for and I think he's aiming to make a profit. I am a nice guy and I don't want to sound like a jerk by lowballing him so bad.


thanks

C. Tupper

I have heard around here the rate of a dollar per cc for one that runs..but this sounds like it needs some work. $3-400 sounds good to me.Figure out what those repairs you mention would cost. Total them and see what a similiar bike that doesn't need those repairs would go for. Deduct that stuff.
By the way I am 5'6" 165 lbs and ride a 650 just fine. Actually I want to lower it about 2 inches in time. I have reaaaaally short legs. 29" inseam. Don't limit yourself if you don't have to , but remember safety first.

Post edited by: pumps, at: 2006/07/25 01:17

Post edited by: pumps, at: 2006/07/25 01:20

Thats a little high, but I'd give more for an LTD than a gpz anyday myself (I don't like older sport bikes and cafes)

I paid $100 for mine in perfect (but lean) running condition, with two small tears in the seat, some fading paint on the tank, badly flaked away factory paint on the side covers, no turn signals or tail/brake light, rashed stator cover and slightly bent handlebars from a laydown, 19k miles and NO title. I gave it new tires, battery, ignition switch, one mirror, a set of uni pods to replace the emgo pods, turn signals, tail light, brake and clutch levers (the little ball on the end of each one was broken off), speedometer cable, clutch cable, all for about $450-500 more counting shop labor and mark up on the battery, ignition switch and tires before I got the bike in my possession.

The no title for mine really slapped the crap out of the value of it, and it cost me a total of about $200 to get a bonded title for it (the title had an error in the spelling of the name on it when it was moved back into the US from germany, and it was lost, so I just went for a bonded title rather than track down the owner whos name was on the title from a previous trade-in)

I'd offer 300-500 for it, as a 550 ltd is a VERY comfortable bike for an average size person, is fairly zesty up to about 60 mph with stock gearing, its light and nimble around town, and should get 40-50 mpg.

tires alone may be $300+ with mounting. i would go $150-200...tops. by the way, i have a son who is 5'8" and easily rides my 1000. so, don't be afraid of bigger bikes if u have experience.

Four years ago I bought an 81 550 LTD with Windjammer fairing and bags. Bike had 14,000 miles on it. The only thing it needed was tires which to me are a normal wear item. I also have a 29" inseam (although I'm a bit beefier than you) and the bike fits perfectly. I paid $500.00. Since I've owned the bike I've had no problems at all except a minor electrical problem with brake & rear turn signals. That took a few hours of hunting around, a soldering iron and some shrink tubing and it's good as new. If you buy the bike I would definately do all the things you mentioned plus check closely on brake condition. just a side note: I wasn't sure I would be keeping this bike because I thought I would need something bigger. Let me tell you this 550 hauls my butt down the road without a problem. I can get a dependable 48 - 50 miles per gallon from her. When I put tires on I went with Cheng-Shin. They have proven to be a good reliable tire that wear well. (Just a note, it's worth the couple of bucks to replace the valve stems when you do the tires) They are reasonably priced and fit they style of riding I do which is mostly commuting and pleasure riding.

Damn I'm wordy today...

Anyway, if you buy the bike I'm sure you won't be disapoiinted with it. I personally think $400 - $500 is reasonable to pay.

Here's my 2 cents:

If you've absolutely got to have this bike, try to get the the best deal possible. Look on ebay - check the completed listings for a comparable bike - I did a quick check and found a nice 1981 with 9K miles and a 4 into 1 for $795. The bike you spoke of is hardly worth anywhere near $600 - maybe if it ran good.

One thing you have to remember, as mentioned earlier, is the additonal cost of the parts that are immedaitely needed - like the tires. A bike that is a few hundred dollars more with new tires (and one that runs good) is definitely worth your time in the long run.

If you don't need a bike right this second, save a little more money and get yourself a great deal when the riding season is over.

Don't be in a huge rush to buy a bike unless its a great deal - otherwise you'll kick yourself in the ass when you find that great deal a week later.

Its obviuos that by the time your done with the bike, you'll be in to it for about 1000-1200 bucks:blink: So if you got that kind of cash go for somethin you can ride away with, unless your lookin for a project. The dollar per cc rule (if runnin) works well so run with that. AND about the bike size thing:huh: Dude I have friends that ride huge A$$ bikes and they weigh in at 125 on a rainy day!! and 5'4 if they got thier BOOTS on:woohoo: If you are an EXPERIENCED RIDER dont be scared to venture out a bit. Go up lil by lil if you have to.

Thanks for alll your help. You guys have been extremely helpful. I think I'm just gona have to ride my skinny ass around on that 250 rebel until the fall and look for a better deal then. I can say for sure though, that when that time rolls around I'll look for a KZ. I love how these bikes look and ride. Thanks again for the help.


C. Tupper

I don't understand why people keep quoting the dollar per cc rule. It's way too generic to use as a means of determining value. Has anyone seen a decent running KZ900 in decent condition for $900? Maybe its OK to use that method for bikes that are a little rough in regard to physical and running conditions, but for the decent to nice bikes, it just doesn't seem to apply. Especially with gas prices at $3.20 per gallon.

Post edited by: chopstar, at: 2006/07/25 14:16