TOPIC:

loudhvx wrote: 1981 Kawasaki KZ550C2 Ltd. for Calebjkd

If I wanted to add the horn I would just branch off the "hot" wire to the horn button, to the horn itself, then to ground, right?

Take a look at the 1980 KZ750-H1 wiring diagram in the link below. I believe when the horn button is pressed it connects to ground on the handlebars. So in the stock wiring a hot wire goes directly to one terminal on the horn, and a wire runs from the other terminal on the horn to the horn button. Then when the horn button is pressed it completes the circuit to ground and the horn is activated. Ed

mbsween.bike-night.com/kz750l3/media/KZ750-H1-US.jpg

Like Ed said, the horn button connects to ground via the handlebars.

Run a wire from the top wire (which is switched hot), to the horn, then another wire from the horn to the horn button, which will connect to ground when pressed.

Thanks guys!!

Hey Loudhvx I have a pretty good understanding of all your diagrams, and they have helped me a lot, so thank you so much. But I have two quick questions, where should I start when following any of these wiring diagrams, and what gauge wire should I use? I think Im gonna use the very first one on the first page. I have a 1981 KZ750!

Nevermind, i read through the full forum and have my questions answered, but what if I wanted to keep my turn signals, could I just wire them into the starter/killswitch?

If you check the diagrams, most of them, especially the later ones, follow a similar format. These are more or less schematics to show electrical function, but do not really show physical location of wires and components. Wiring diagrams show the physical layout along with more details on connectors etc.

My schematics generally (but not always) follow this architecture:

The power generation and regulation starts at the left side, battery and starter are usually just to the right of that, then ignition, then all of the lights and accessories are to the far right.

Current in the power generation, fuses, and main on/off switch flows from bottom to top. Then current for everything else flows top to bottom. (One exception is if the regulator has a dedicated detection wire, or if the alternator uses a field coil. That wiring will be to the far left, and current (if any) will flow top to bottom.)

The top horizontal line is switch 12v power, and the bottom horizontal line is ground.

Some of the earlier schematics may not follow this system, and may have things in different places, and power flow direction reversed (right to left, instead of left to right).

Gabe42 wrote: Nevermind, i read through the full forum and have my questions answered, but what if I wanted to keep my turn signals, could I just wire them into the starter/killswitch?

Keeping the above post in mind, you would tap into the top line for 12v power. So yes, you could tap from the top side of the kill switch, but anywhere on the top line will work as well.

Incidently, on the original Mattylight schematic, it would be better to leave out the optional fuse. Some Kawasaki's came with the fuse in that location, but it would actually be better to put it in the line coming out of the rectifier. I think Kawasaki eventually changed that fuse location back to the way it was in earlier KZ's because they realized it has the potential to do damage if the fuse blows, butthe bike keeps running.

Schmeck wrote: If there is a way You can incorporate an 8 pin Terminal block instead of the oem fuse box that would be awesome!

Sorry Schmeck, I've been really busy and this post fell by the wayside. As it is, these are schematics, so I really wouldn't be able to incorporate a terminal block since I don't specify where you will connect wires. That is up to the person doing the wiring. These drawings are just to show the functionality of the electrical system, not necessarily the layout of the wiring. To show that for each individual custom bike would be an enormous task to do remotely.

Also, I generally recommend the single-fuse, waterproof holders for the fuses. Usually a bare bones will use one, or maybe two of them. Obviously, you can't replace fuses with a terminal block, they are two different things, with different purposes.

I'd be happy to draw up a bare bones schematic if you still need it, however, it looks like you have it mostly figured out, based on the other thread you posted.

If any questions come up, especially for the batteryless setup, post the questions in that thred, and I'll try to answer there.

Hey loudhvx , yes I did figure out the wiring . its actually really easy when you just wire one part to another .If I need help wiring switches I will definently chime in here , Thanks

Ill post any questions in my thread , just read that last sentence .

THank you so much for your help, its all starting to come together. So Loudhvx, where are the crank pickups? Are they located underneath the small cover towards the front on the right hand side of the bike (if you're sitting on it)?

And can a bike run off both the IC Ignitor and Dyna S? I found that my bike has a Dyna ignition due to extra wires running to my coils.

"module" aka "pickup"


Igniter isn't used with Dyna-S.

Good Fortune!

Gabe42 wrote: And can a bike run off both the IC Ignitor and Dyna S? I found that my bike has a Dyna ignition due to extra wires running to my coils.

As Patton said, you normally would never use the IC igniter with a Dyna S, since the Dyna S is meant to replace the igniter and pickups.

However, to answer your question, one probably could use the Dyna S as a pickup system to drive the original IC igniter. It may require an additional couple resistors to work that way, but it could probably be done. The only time you might want to do this is if you have no original pickups, and the Dyna S output driver will no longer block the high induction spike. But this is really only if you're stranded out in the middle of nowhere, and you happen to have all of the right parts with you... highly unlikely.

loudhvx wrote: As Patton said, you normally would never use the IC igniter with a Dyna S, since the Dyna S is meant to replace the igniter and pickups.

So let me get this straight. My ic igniter Got destroyed in the fire. If I get a dyna s ignition module I won't need a new ic igniter?

Lazyman06 wrote:

loudhvx wrote: As Patton said, you normally would never use the IC igniter with a Dyna S, since the Dyna S is meant to replace the igniter and pickups.

So let me get this straight. My ic igniter Got destroyed in the fire. If I get a dyna s ignition module I won't need a new ic igniter?

Yes.

But it will require 3-ohm coils. The stock coils (from electronic ignitions) should not be used with the Dyna S. If they burned in the fire, then I guess that's not an issue.

Yea they're toast lol. I'm starting from the ground up

Dyna Green 3 ohm coils are recommended for using with Dyna-S electronic ignition.

www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...9+DC1-1&item=DYDC1-1

Regardless of whatever brand coils, new or used, are being considered, would do an ohm-check to confirm that each coil has at least 3 ohms resistance between its primary terminals, before installing them with the Dyna-S.

Good Fortune!

loudhvx wrote: 1977 KZ1000 with fuel pump for Hollywoodmx

Can I add I have few additions to this.?

1. I have a mosfet regulator; its two connectors. One connector is a simple power and ground and the other side is a 3 wire alternator wiring. roadstercycle.com
2. Three warning lights (all 2.2v LED's); for neutral light, signals on and oil pressure light.
3. LED Signal lights front and back, I have the resistors and relays.
4. Highlight low and hi switch and relay (I'm not going to run a hi-beam warning light).
5. Brake light and switches for front and back.
6. 3x gauge lighting for the back lights of the three gauges. (take off ignition power I'm guessing and grounds?)
7. Stock controls for starter, kill, turn signals, headlights.
8. Fuse box.
9. Horn.

Before redoing the diagram I'm looking at this list I'm thinking at this point if its probably easier to remove the things I don't need then wire from scratch, which at this point is to swap in the new regulator/rectifier, add the LED warnings from the stock wires and swap in my LED signal light stuff, ditch the brake light failure switch. If thats the case I would then just need help on ditching the stock rectifier and regulator and wiring in the combo mosfet unit.

Thoughts?