TOPIC:

This is for mattylight. Lets see if it'll post.

you are the man!! seriously excellent help! i greatly appreciate it, and so fast too!!

No prob. I already had that one on file for 550's. Just so happens your 750 is very similar.

Good luck!

Here's one in case you use a Dyna S. Some have reported the instructions may have the black and green wire mixed up. They may have to be swapped to work correctly. (Or the magnetic rotor can be flipped around 180 degrees.)
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oh that answers so many questions. as usual, great info...and so timely.
matt

Matt

I too had some issue(still do) hooking up or setting up my Dyna S on my SR 650. The thing with your schematic that is confusing me is that where you show your wires all terminating you have a dot is that to mean back to the harness plug or something? So I simply wire the Dyna S right up to the coils? sorry I looked at it again and see some light coming through the vaseline covered window... Now I am really confused, Dyna;s instructions were really not at all helpful..... anything you can do to shed some light is appreciated

xc

Post edited by: xstreamcanadian, at: 2007/11/13 22:41

xstreamcanadian wrote:

Matt

I too had some issue(still do) hooking up or setting up my Dyna S on my SR 650. The thing with your schematic that is confusing me is that where you show your wires all terminating you have a dot is that to mean back to the harness plug or something? So I simply wire the Dyna S right up to the coils? sorry I looked at it again and see some light coming through the vaseline covered window... Now I am really confused, Dyna;s instructions were really not at all helpful..... anything you can do to shed some light is appreciated

xc<br><br>Post edited by: xstreamcanadian, at: 2007/11/13 22:41

Are you addressing Matt or me? I drew up that schematic you see above.

On the schematic I drew:
12v comes from the battery to a bolt on the starter solenoid. From there, the 12v goes to the optional fuse, then to the main fuse, then to the ignition switch, then to the kill switch, then to a point where it branches to each coil and the red wire on the Dyna S. The coils get their ground through the Dyna S, and the Dyna S grounds out to the engine. Therefore, the engine must have a ground wire back to the battery.

I think what is confusing me is the way you have drawn the circuit. the kill switch should be NC not NO. As it is drawn it appears also that by pressing the start button, you short out hot to ground, if you hold the kill switch at the same time. Obviously this isnt the case. I realize you posted this to help someone who doesnt read schematics, but it there a more precise drawing of this one around? I am basically re-wiring my whole harness piece by piece, but I really dont have any understanding of how it should work, but I do know how electricity works and I wire up complex circuits for a living so as long as I can get it in my fat head about how it is supposed to function I can do it. I appreciate the play by play on the hot side, that helps.

xc

xstreamcanadian wrote:

I think what is confusing me is the way you have drawn the circuit. the kill switch should be NC not NO. As it is drawn it appears also that by pressing the start button, you short out hot to ground, if you hold the kill switch at the same time. Obviously this isnt the case. I realize you posted this to help someone who doesnt read schematics, but it there a more precise drawing of this one around? I am basically re-wiring my whole harness piece by piece, but I really dont have any understanding of how it should work, but I do know how electricity works and I wire up complex circuits for a living so as long as I can get it in my fat head about how it is supposed to function I can do it. I appreciate the play by play on the hot side, that helps.

xc

When I draw switches or relays etc, I draw them as if the machine is completely powered off. That would be with the kill switch open. It's the convention that is used most often, (but not always). Kaw schematics use the closed position, so if it's bothersome, I can just as easily draw it closed, but it's really not going to change the functionality of the schematic. It's just a toggle switch.

I don't know why you say the start button would short the hot. Do you not see the start button feeding voltage to the coil of the start solenoid? The solenoid has resistance so it is not a short.

I don't think you're going to find a more straight forward schematic, but I'll try. This one is drawn with the bike as it's being started. The red nodes are 12v and the blue nodes are ground. Green is AC. The switches are closed and the button is pressed and the relay is energized.

The coil of the starter solenoid is highlighted in a yellow square. That is where the 12v is dropped, but it is not a short. Electrical energy is converted to magnetism (and some heat) inside the coil.



Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/11/14 12:47

loudhvx wrote:

...complex?....

Not at all -- but could you reduce NASA Calling to ten words or less, and without saying sinusoidal?

And here is one with the bike running normal.



Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/11/14 12:53

Patton wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

...complex?....

Not at all -- but could you reduce NASA Calling to ten words or less, and without saying sinusoidal?

Very funny. Just for that, more trig homework for you!!!

thats fine, you guys, I wasnt trying to insult anyone. I was only pointing out that this schematic wasnt really a true electrical schematic, at least not one that I have ever seen, I get what you meant by it now, thanks for trying to dumb it down for us poor ignorant electricians. And yes, there is such a thing as a complex circuit, but in your case Mr Patton, it may be referred to as a "Hey have y'all seen my hammer" type of work.

Just so you know, to those who really are not into reading electrical diagrams for a living, this is very clear. I had no trouble understanding what I needed to do from the picture. It may be a "have you seen my hammer" type of a wiring harness, but as long as the bike runs properly, that is what matters most. It is simple, not complex, that is it's value. IMHO.
matt

xstreamcanadian wrote:

I was only pointing out that this schematic wasnt really a true electrical schematic, at least not one that I have ever seen, I get what you meant by it now, thanks for trying to dumb it down for us poor ignorant electricians. And yes, there is such a thing as a complex circuit, but in your case Mr Patton, it may be referred to as a "Hey have y'all seen my hammer" type of work.

No. You were not pointing out whether or not the drawing was a schematic. You were saying the drawing was incorrect by arguing that the start button was drawn as an electrical short. I was trying to highlight how it was NOT an electrical short. Sorry for trying to explain things.

Schematic or not, the point was to show Matt how to wire things up. I don't believe there are any errors in that respect.

As for Patton, his technically accurate posts speak for themselves... and he certainly doesn't need anyone defending him, but if you are insulting him with the "hammer" comment based on his post, then it is my fault he posted it. I don't recall the exact wording, but I was asking if my drawing was in some way unclear or "complex". He was just answering, and making an inside joke to me (which made me laugh). Unfortunately I edited the post to take a different direction and make things clearer rather than to simply ask if it wasn't clear.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/11/15 06:44

jeez you guys sure get all riled up! No offense there loudhvx. Just trying to make sure I got what you were trying to convey.

You can all sit down now boys, and roll your sleeves back down, I dont reckon I am lookin' fer trouble.....

All joking aside, I appreciate your effort in clarifying it for me

thanks

xc

looks like my kind of wiring,nice clean and simple!

Great diagram. Does any one know what changes (if any) I would need to make for this setup to work on my 79 650 c with points ignition? I have a veritable rat's nest of wires right now (including a few that do not connect to anything), and I would love to scrap it all and start over. Also, does anyone know of a good place to pick up all of the wire and hardware that I am going to need to pull this off? I prefer brick and morter stores to internet if possible.

Your drawing helped out more people than are replying to this post.
I had a go at this wiring and i must say it is just what i wanted.
Thanks. Roy

650 in Vegas wrote:

Great diagram. Does any one know what changes (if any) I would need to make for this setup to work on my 79 650 c with points ignition? I have a veritable rat's nest of wires right now (including a few that do not connect to anything), and I would love to scrap it all and start over. Also, does anyone know of a good place to pick up all of the wire and hardware that I am going to need to pull this off? I prefer brick and morter stores to internet if possible.

There are many differences in the 1977 kz650 C model from the 750 and 550. Mostly charging system differences. Luckily, I have a bare-bones diagram for that bike as well, but I need to know if you will keep the starter or go kick-only. Unfortunately, the 77 650's must retain a battery, even if going kick-only.