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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 22 Mar 2020 15:06 #821442

  • Mikaw
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First question, the pumpers are done, installed and started for the first time. I am impressed with how well they idle just from a bench sync. Still going to put them through a carbpro sync. Unknown how but there is an unusual amount of locking paint on the synchronizer adjusters, see photo. Do I need to be concerned of paint flakes falling into the carburetor while performing the sync? I did have paint flaking off during the bench sync.


Second question, when hitting the throttle it seems to respond well, but idle hangs ever so slightly before dropping. It does quickly return to base idle but just not as quick as I’m used to. Is this caused by the pumpers added fuel still being pulled into the engine as slides are closing. Won’t be doing any more work till I find some fuel line clamps. I used Suzuki fuel line as recommended by Nessism it’s 10.2 mm OD and having a rough time finding Corbin style clamps to stop the fuel leaks.
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 22 Mar 2020 17:14 #821454

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That red paint does not look stock. I've seen yellow, just a dab on the adjusters, but not red and not such a large quantity.

The hanging idle suggests a lean mixture. Since the bike has pods all bets are off regarding the jetting. Good luck with all that.
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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 23 Mar 2020 05:37 #821486

  • hardrockminer
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Check your manifold boots for air leakage into the engine.
I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.

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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 23 Mar 2020 08:02 #821499

  • Mikaw
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Hard rock, new intake boots from Jim at RedLine. I know new doesn’t mean good.

First critical path is the fuel leaks. Anyone have a connection for Corbin spring style fuel hose clamps that will fit and work on 10mm OD hose. I installed a Pingel petcock with one “goesoutta”. Used this fuel filter to make a 90 from The petcock to the tee, that’s were I’m getting the leak.
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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Last edit: by Mikaw. Reason: Photo

First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 23 Mar 2020 08:56 #821504

  • SWest
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I use the red hose clamps you can find at the local hardware store. They come in all sizes and are easy to put on and take off.
Steve
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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 23 Mar 2020 15:52 #821531

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Often even new boots will leak a bit. Just spray a little carb cleaner on the manifold side while the engine is running and listen to the engine revs. If you have a leak the revs will change. And if you have a leak it will cause the revs to come back down slowly after pulling the throttle. I normally add a thin layer of permatex on the boots when I install them.
I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.
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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 23 Mar 2020 17:53 #821542

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Hardrock. Thank you, I gave up for now on the odd sized fuel line and installed some that I knew I could seal and take the fuel leaks off the list. Went for a 10 mile ride around the neighborhood this afternoon. Hanging RPM is gone. Pretty impressed with the performance. I'm going to guess it was me being concerned about the fuel leaks and I wasn't letting the float bowls completely fill. Nessism was correct, it was lean. Planning on another short ride tomorrow to warn it up then going to put them thru a carb sync. How worried to I need to be with the possibility of the red locking paint flacking off and getting into the carbs while syncing?

Edit: Should I tune first before sync?
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.

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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 24 Mar 2020 01:39 #821557

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Mikaw wrote: How worried to I need to be with the possibility of the red locking paint flacking off and getting into the carbs while syncing?
Edit: Should I tune first before sync?


The paint shouldn't be a problem or get past the slides but you could slacken off the adjusters to disturb the paint and blow the tops out with an air line before syncing.
You should balance the carbs first , it will make tuning easier.
AIR CORRECTOR JETS FOR VM CARBS AND ETHANOL RESISTANT VITON CHOKE PLUNGER SEAL REPLACMENT FOR ALL CLASSIC AND MODERN MOTORCYCLE CARBURETTORS
kzrider.com/forum/23-for-sale/611992-air-corrector-jets-





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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 24 Mar 2020 11:08 #821594

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zed1015 wrote:

Mikaw wrote: How worried to I need to be with the possibility of the red locking paint flacking off and getting into the carbs while syncing?
Edit: Should I tune first before sync?


The paint shouldn't be a problem or get past the slides but you could slacken off the adjusters to disturb the paint and blow the tops out with an air line before syncing.
You should balance the carbs first , it will make tuning easier.


Thank you Zed1015. Only low 40's here today and with Michigan now in a stay at home order, I have nothing to do the next 3 weeks, so I will wait till tomorrow for the longer ride, MAYBE!, I only went around the neighborhood yesterday and our speed limits highest speed here is 35MPH, I cheated a few time, :whistle: :evil: I pulled the plugs last night after my short ride and plugs were black and sooty. Not worried yet because I was looking for improvement in the low just off idle performance over the previous carb rack. Like I mentioned previously that RPM range performance is way better than my previous rack. The random backfire out thru the pod filter is gone. Nice clean warm up on choke also, before it would fart, sputter and just didn't sound healthy. With that said I know I lugged the engine and more than likely caused the rich condition. I will get it out sooner than later and up in the RPM range to get it to clean up the plugs and cylinders. I'll make a few hard runs and check the plugs and if they have cleaned up I'll do a sync and start the tune process. Thank you for the guidance.

I'm an old school small block chevy guy, and to help performance we would put more ignition timing in, will that help or hurt and what would be the max I can advance without going over the hill. With the SBC we'd pick our fuel grade and add timing till we got detonation and then back down, Does the same guidelines hold true with the KZ1000
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.

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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 25 Mar 2020 18:40 #821767

  • Mikaw
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Started this morning with a cold valve lash check, as many times as I have done this it was still off. Had a few in the .12mm so I went through them again. I’m in need of a 265 shim, so Partzilla will get more of my cash. Then I checked the cam timing which I’d never done before, all good! Put cam cover back on and hooked up the auxiliary tank, fired up and set timing, 2-3 was off slightly from 1-4 so got that set. Warmed up and set the Air idle screws for best idle, then on the Carbtune, really close on the bench sync, only had to tweek carb 1 & 4 just a scooch. Tank on and out for a test run. Super smooth at low rpm and pulls hard through all gears. Over a hundy, still pulling but I let off. The 28’s really helped. Across the countryside and back across the one lane bridge with my Red Barchetta, and home. Pulled the plugs and I’m really happy. The 15 pilots and 115 mains look spot on. The porcelain is peanut butter color, so I feeling good on the mains, but what about the black on the threads?


Tomorrow I’m going to focus on checking the standing start response. Let’s hope it goes like the upper RPM pulls.

SWest has said it before and it totally agree, Speed is good for the soul!!!
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 26 Mar 2020 02:18 #821784

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The sooty base ring is jetting and earth strap is heat range.
They look pretty good for a Z and don't really get much better.
Better to be slightly on the rich side anyway .
The base ring only indicates the jetting at the speed you cut the engine so that is at idle I presume and you need to do plug chops at higher speeds to see how close the jetting is there.
Here's a link to a very good page which you will find useful.
www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html
AIR CORRECTOR JETS FOR VM CARBS AND ETHANOL RESISTANT VITON CHOKE PLUNGER SEAL REPLACMENT FOR ALL CLASSIC AND MODERN MOTORCYCLE CARBURETTORS
kzrider.com/forum/23-for-sale/611992-air-corrector-jets-





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First start and first experience with VM28’s with accelerator pump 26 Mar 2020 11:07 #821825

  • Mikaw
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zed1015 wrote: The sooty base ring is jetting and earth strap is heat range.
They look pretty good for a Z and don't really get much better.
Better to be slightly on the rich side anyway .
The base ring only indicates the jetting at the speed you cut the engine so that is at idle I presume and you need to do plug chops at higher speeds to see how close the jetting is there.
Here's a link to a very good page which you will find useful.
www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html


Thank you for the help and advice. Your correct in that was at idle. Rode home after the couple of hard pulls and it idled a few while I opened the garage door. Great resource article.

Do you have a comment on timing. Can it be advanced or is it better to leave it alone. Full disclosure I advanced it last night before the run. I have no way of telling number of degrees. My advancer plate has a line for the “F” mark.


And the letter “F” is stamped on the plate just advanced of the line. I only advanced enough to get timing directly over the stamped letter F
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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