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riturbo wrote: I agree with Old kaw . Ive fired up the fuel injected turbos that have sat for twenty years . More then a few .They usually fire up no problem . If you can get the pump working it will run .
Walbro 392 gsl pump is the one we use on the turbos . A little over a hundred for the pump last time I bought one . You can get the injectors cleaned and flo checked for 125.00 . Its a pretty simple system .

OR, use some injector cleaner after it gets fuel pressure and is running, OR rig up a function generator and transistor driver circuit then clean them yourself. A intake air temp sensor is nothing more than a thermistor. A multi meter will test one. Actually a meter will test every sensor on that bike.

www.ebay.com/p/Fuel-Pump-Walbro-GSL392-U...=162604992448&chn=ps

www.ebay.com/p/Fuel-Pump-Walbro-GSL392-U...284?iid=223110322815

I sincerely appreciate this discussion. Let me respond to a few of the points made. As for the gentleman who talked about the issues he had with his GPz1100 when new: This was a Kawasaki dealer circa 1983. Not last week or last year where no one has the time, the skills or the interest to work on these. I've heard that some story a number of times for whatever that is worth. If it was my bike I'd mess around with it for months to get it to run stock. It isn't mine.

No one is concerned about what happened when some goofball jumped it from a car battery? I've got 7 hours in this thing, I've only charged him for 3. I only bill when I'm making direct progress towards the end goal. Buying a fuel pump, cleaning and or replacing injectors before I can even start to see if the ECU is fried and the diagnostic time to sort that out all costs time and money...for a 'might make it run'. My belief is much of the problem with the early FI bikes is in general the mechanics of the day had little interest in learning about FI. Speculative and all ancient history. Plus, if I were to get it running and he has a problem next summer, where does he go to get it fixed. If I've got a job at that time, it ain't going to be me. With carbs, someone will have the chops to make it run properly. I've got carbs I'll sell him for 60% of the going rate. If I don't make it run properly for well short of $1000, I'll put it back together and won't charge him a dime. Then we will talk about next steps as does he want to pursue fixing the FI. I suspect the answer is no and he would sell it for salvage value.

I'm going to move into projects since that is what this has become. Got some time in the garage yesterday. I extracted the fuel injection lock stock and barrel. The electronics came out fairly easily. It is completely isolated save one 3 pin connector. I've got to look up those three wires to see what they do and determine if they need to be addressed versus leaving them open. The oil cooler lines want to interfere with the BS34 carbs throttle blade shaft. I'll have to fab some simple brackets to mount to the #1 & 2, #3 & 4 top carb holder allen head screws. Bridging those with a flat bracket will hold those lines out of the way. I'll have to cover or dress out the edges of those brackets to ensure they don't chafe the lines over time. I should be able to get back out there for a bit this afternoon. I also have a little negative battery cable issue to address.

ajsfirehawk wrote: I If it was my bike I'd mess around with it for months to get it to run stock. It isn't mine.

No one is concerned about what happened when some goofball jumped it from a car battery? I've got 7 hours in this thing, I've only charged him for 3. I only bill when I'm making direct progress towards the end goal. Buying a fuel pump, cleaning and or replacing injectors before I can even start to see if the ECU is fried and the diagnostic time to sort that out all costs time and money...for a 'might make it run'. My belief is much of the problem with the early FI bikes is in general the mechanics of the day had little interest in learning about FI. Speculative and all ancient history. Plus, if I were to get it running and he has a problem next summer, where does he go to get it fixed. If I've got a job at that time, it ain't going to be me. With carbs, someone will have the chops to make it run properly. I've got carbs I'll sell him for 60% of the going rate. If I don't make it run properly for well short of $1000, I'll put it back together and won't charge him a dime. Then we will talk about next steps as does he want to pursue fixing the FI. I suspect the answer is no and he would sell it for salvage value.

I'm going to move into projects since that is what this has become. Got some time in the garage yesterday. I extracted the fuel injection lock stock and barrel. The electronics came out fairly easily. It is completely isolated save one 3 pin connector. I've got to look up those three wires to see what they do and determine if they need to be addressed versus leaving them open. The oil cooler lines want to interfere with the BS34 carbs throttle blade shaft. I'll have to fab some simple brackets to mount to the #1 & 2, #3 & 4 top carb holder allen head screws. Bridging those with a flat bracket will hold those lines out of the way. I'll have to cover or dress out the edges of those brackets to ensure they don't chafe the lines over time. I should be able to get back out there for a bit this afternoon. I also have a little negative battery cable issue to address.

It would seem this EFI was doomed from the start. ( I have 2 extra air boxes and a Kz1000 battery tray I'd like to sell!) Jumping a bike it's self won't kill it, but hooking it up backwards will. (it was addressed earlier with the "known good battery" post). Hooking it up backwards will also fry the regulator diodes too if this is the case, which I would assume you already know if it's shorted just from messing with the bike. Hooking up a noid light in place of an injector and cranking it with a good battery would tell if the fuel injection is pulsing / working and if the injectors will get a signal. The light will flash. Any test light will tell if it is also calling for the fuel pump at the fuel pump connector, and any multi meter will check all of the sensors. I can certainly understand where EFI might seem intimidating to some when not fully understood. Months to diagnose? All of this stuff can be checked in less than an hour.
At any rate, good luck on the fix / carb conversion.

ajsfirehawk wrote: .................No one is concerned about what happened when some goofball jumped it from a car battery? ...................

Jump starting the bike from a car battery should be ok as long as the car engine is not running at the time. Ed

I don't know the details of the jumpstart 13 years ago. I know that was the moment in time when it quit running. Specifically the fuel pump wouldn't power up when the key was turned on.

Old Kaw, thanks for the video. I'll use some of the techniques you have described on my 1980 Z1 Classic soon. I am determined to bring that one back to life with fuel injection. is there a sensor that looks for the pump to come up to pressure? I've done some work on my 2002 Trans Am with EFI Live. I have a working understanding of a modern EFI system. Statement 1 in this post coupled with the dead fuel pump was in fact what doomed this FI system.

ajsfirehawk wrote:
No one is concerned about what happened when some goofball jumped it from a car battery? I've got 7 hours in this thing, I've only charged him for 3. I only bill when I'm making direct progress towards the end goal. Buying a fuel pump, cleaning and or replacing injectors before I can even start to see if the ECU is fried

chops to make it run properly. I've got carbs I'll sell him for 60% of the going rate. If I don't make it run properly for well short of $1000, I'll put it back together and won't charge him a dime. Then we will talk about next steps as does he want to pursue fixing the FI. I suspect the answer is no and he would sell it for salvage value.

This is the neg battery cable? What a mess that cable is. THIS would be the FIRST thing to fix on ANY bike. Pry that connector open, cut that cable off, and pinch that connector back over the cable, and solder it.

NO, you don't clean injectors before seeing if the electronics work, that is what the noid light tells you. The fuel pump is / was`80 bucks on ebay,
Obviously you did no troubleshooting whatsoever to even find out if this EFI worked. All you needed to do was rig up a fuel pump and give it some fuel pressure., ANY fuel pump.. Put a hot battery on it, after fixing that screwed up cable, and crank it. Give it a shot of either and see if it fires. It might miss and run like shit, which also can be fixed.

With a battery ($60.00 eBay)and fuel pump, (80.00 eBay) and say ~8 hours labor at 50 per, getting this bike running would be under 600 bucks. I charge this day in, day out, and fix the stuff 100% of the time. I troubleshoot more than I change parts.

7 Hours? Hopefully one of those hours was spent on the battery cable.

I copped to spending little time diagnosing in the prior post. Early on when the fuel pump was shot I decided to cut bait. An early post by a GPz1100 owner in this thread talked about using caution to 'avoid going too far down the rabbit hole'. It is far from the first time I've heard those kinds of comments about these bikes. Sniping for a little show and tell on the battery cable? The battery cable came apart in my hand yesterday and of course I fixed it. I was not planning on cleaning before testing the injectors but the potential for needing to do so doesn't seem unrealistic. The 7 hours is in large part my reading, researching, tracking down a manual (thank you Pablo) cleaning, inspecting in addition to draining, flushing, de-rusting the inside of the tank, pulling, testing, soaking in PB Blaster the fuel pump, extracting the electronics and other maintenance items. I billed only for moving this bike closer to running as I believe I mentioned. My time in research, inspecting...it is that, my time, not billable but it is time.

I still do appreciate the input. Really. I will in fact use the information to get the next bike running with it's DFI.

I too recently purchased a GPz1100 I am completely in love everything appears to be good on mine so far. I did find that i have no power to the fuel pump. Does anyone know what I can do to get a replacement relay or can it be fixed by some mad scientist? Sorry for high jacking your forum. Once i have the bike running i will be selling the full fuel system so if someone needs one it is complete. Also i am in need of a new windscreen can anyone tell me which model fits my 82 where i can get one or have one made anything new.
Thanks Dudes
Dustin

my 82

I just got my fuel pump to humm away I was so stoked then I started pulling the spark plugs and found plumbers tape holding the number two plug in it's stripped. I got a thread insert in and seems good but have no compression in that cylinder so looks like I got a valve promblem or Piston problem. All the cylinders have good compression except this one. I took a look at all the valve seats on the good cylinders and I can clearly see a mating surface ring. On my bad compression cylinder there is no mating surface ring on the exhaust valve so hopefully it's just out of adjustment. We will see maybe it just has some build up. Cleaning the rust out of the tank now new filter and fuel lines and hopefully she will pop off. If the guy that started this thread would like my fuel injection it's going to be for sale. Not sure if it will fit on your 81.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

daveo wrote: Did the 81 GPz1100 heads have fuel injector ports at the top of the intake runners?

An excellent example of this head type was recently listed for sale on ebay. See:

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationScroll through the ended listing photos in previous post to view the head from the top.
In addition to the head, the seller has since listed two camshafts, and one may well be a 84-85 ZX(GPZ)1100