TOPIC:

Thanks for the help, I will check as soon as I can the cams, the block is def a big block non original but no markings. the bike was not really detuned it was build like that.
I don't really want to those more money into it . I am going to find a local specialist to get an opinion, worst scenario my cousin will put a nice paint job and I will take it to Moroso for few runs and put a sell sign I am pretty sure a muscle head might buy it over there.
putting standard cams might be a solution but pain in the but with the shims set up.
So a question you guys think that mention about the sleves been very slim, is that the case also with the big block?

Sayonara wrote: So a question you guys think that mention about the sleves been very slim, is that the case also with the big block?

Simple answer is no with a big block,
The only way you end up with thin liners is by boring the stock 900 block to 1030 or 1045 or the 1000 block to 1105.
There's no way to increase the stock liners by 100cc per hole.
The largest a stock block will go is 1260 and that is only possible by boring out the block and fitting larger liners.
Trying to go any bigger will destroy the stock alloy casting hence the need for the big block.

Need a pic of the right front of the cylinder block to tell. Never seen a big block with fins like that. Sleeves that thin will cause overheating issues. If I were to sell a bike like that to a "Muscle head" I'd be sure it's as advertised.
Steve

I have inspected the block completely and it does not have any markings, the guy that sold it to me said he called MTC and they said some early blocks came with no markings here are some pics but I did not find marking at all.

one question, the round rubber that goes on top of the carb choice fallen out, would that cause problems carb problems? and what should `i use to glue it back in place?
Thanks

If you are asking about the small cylindrical caps that cover the vacuum ports, then yes, they are very important, but they should not be glued. If you are asking about something else, a picture would help us.

Evidently APE big blocks no longer have the company name cast in.

kzzone.com/blocks.html

Thanks for the reply.
Yes was the cylindrical ruber I just put it back there.
You mean that the block might be an ape?
I am taking the bike to a mechanic that its been doing this bikes and racing them for years to see what is his opinion.
I was wondering if there is a fuel injection system that can be fitted on this bike with Power comander?

Ok Kz heads, I founf out that one of the main jets was not the same size as the other ones(130) so we got it to 130 with the correct drill bit. and ut it back together. it happens that i also have left the petcock open so for some reason gas kept going to trough the engine and mixed with the oil.
So I drained the oil, put new oil and filter and the bike started straight away, I noticed that as it warmed up the engine started to reving up so I figured that it was because whoever sold it to me did not have a clue of what it was doing when he told me to start the bike without choke on as he obviously had the carbs more open than it should have.
So I did the engine to get hot and then set up the middle RPM by doing this now I can start the engine with the choke and when its warm it stays iddle, even do that sometimes get a bit unstable.
The bike stays Iddle most of the time and clears good, the engine is strong but I checked the compression and its around 130 A mechanic thinks its that whoever put it together has put a thick gasket on it.
I can't get to that yet as he said that it needs to measure the distance between the pistons and the valves and then measure the dam gasket,otherwise will bend valve just can't just put a thinner gasket and boala.
I opened the valve cover to check valve clearance as I heard some valves sound and I found this CWC EP14 CamShafts with APE sprockets and the Valve cover was grinder to clear space for the camshafts, Also has under bucket shims.
I measure the gap and most of them are 0.10 some 0.15 but cylinder one is 0.20 in the intake and 0.25 on the exhaust. I was thinking to graduate valves as I have shims and tolls but for standard KZ engine so I close it again.
I also noticed that one cylinder spark plug is black so its running richer I did put APE air pods on it.
I overall the bike runs and it strong but I guess its like 75 % of were it can be and it farts a quite bit specially when I let the accelerator go at high rpm.
I would like to know what cams are those and some thoughts of advice from you guys.
I acquire an engine that was left in a basement since 1978 unfortunately the guy did not sealed it and 2 exhaust valves got stock, he turned the engine over and bended this valves. I opened that engine and I am doing new valve job,piston rings and gaskets. once its done i will replace this 1400 for this original engine and then figure how to do it right for another build I have in mind.
So far its been progress and I feel much better and confident that its going to work at the end. Most of all that you people for being there and your kindness is priceless

That 130 psi compression is decent especially if it is consistent across all cylinders.
If it goes good I would leave the engine alone.
Those cams will be the cause of the slightly lower cranking compression and is normal in that situation.
If your mechanic knows of the cams that are installed then he should know that they are the cause of the comp readings, not a thick gasket.
The shim gaps want to be 0.15 inlet and 0.15mm on the exhaust for those high lift cams.
May even want 0.20mm on the exhaust as a lot of comp cams specify that.
You need to find the ID markings on the cam ( usually stamped or etched on the very end of the cam or near the cam sprocket) to find the maker and grind specs and then you will be able to find the correct lobe centre figures and clearance specs on the net.

Sayonara wrote: . . . left the petcock open so for some reason gas kept going to trough the engine and mixed with the oil. . . .

This should not happen, even when the petcock is left open without the engine running.

A leaking fuel valve may get increasingly worse until fuel enters the crankcase even while riding.

Good Fortune!

Thanks for your replies its very helpful, when you mention leaking fule valve you refer to the one on top of the floater? the little one with the springs? So Should I replace them all? or it could be carbs adjustment?
The bike runs good and it runs strong but it is a bit unstable at high rpm cruising like its craving for more gas, someone told me that those 26 bored out to 29mm Mikunis are to small for that size of engine. and that I should have at least 36 or 38 mm what you think about that.
I might be able to source them next year for the new build I am doing.