TOPIC:

how many miles does this bike have on it?

rodneyo wrote:

how many miles does this bike have on it?

43K

Okay, so my shim tool arrived today, and I took out the shims on my #2 cylinder to have a look.

I started with my intake valve which was registering a clearance of .27mm. The shim's size mark was not visible, so I put a micrometer on it and it measured 2.09mm. So far so good. Get a thicker shim and that side can be brought into spec.

Next, I removed the exhaust shim (whose clearance was too tight to measure, but still could rotate the bucket). Bad news. This shim measured 1.99mm.

So I assume this means I've got to remove the top end, take out the valve, and grind the stem (if it is still grindable). Am I right?

If so, does this mean I'm going to need one of those expensive valve removal tools? I've seen the document in the filebase on how to make your own tool, but I don't have a welder. Any other workarounds?

Is removing the top end a big deal?

If you work on a warm day and it's not drafty, you should be able to braze a 'U' onto the spare shim bucket with a MAPP gas torch OR use 'silver solder' instead of bronze/brass. I've read of folks using PVC but have ever tried it. I did not weld a nut on my C-clamp. Just used a small block of hardwood against the valve.

What about this tool on eBay?

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Car-Motorcycle-V...mZ250060610375QQrdZ1

Does this look like it will work?

I saw that the tool that Z1 sells has two adapter sizes: 26mm and 32mm.

This tool on ebay comes with 16, 19, 23, 25, and 30mm adapters. Does anyone know which size is needed for the KZ1000?

Post edited by: Skyman, at: 2006/12/14 12:15

Another question.

If I do need to grind my valve stem, is this something I can do myself with a bench grinder, or are special tools/skills needed that I should take it to a machine shop?

I made a valve spring compressor out of an 8" C clamp. I took a piece of 1" ID steel pipe and cut a 3" long piece out of it, then cut slots in the sides of that piece. It's not welded onto the clamp, but that's not a problem. I glued a rubber bushing onto the lower jaw of the clamp so it wouldn't damage the valve faces.

It'd probably be simpler if I had a picture to show you... sorry.

guitargeek wrote:

I made a valve spring compressor out of an 8" C clamp. I took a piece of 1" ID steel pipe and cut a 3" long piece out of it, then cut slots in the sides of that piece. It's not welded onto the clamp, but that's not a problem. I glued a rubber bushing onto the lower jaw of the clamp so it wouldn't damage the valve faces.

It'd probably be simpler if I had a picture to show you... sorry.

Thanks, GG. I will explore that idea a bit.

I need to read up some more on the process of removing the valves. I don't yet understand what the slots in the sides of the pipe are for. I'm guessing this will become clear once I know more about the removal procedure.

The slots make it a "lot" easier to get the keepers out

steell wrote:

The slots make it a "lot" easier to get the keepers out

Yeah, I read the valve removal instructions in the service manual tonight. It makes sense to me now. Thanks.

Skyman wrote:

Thanks everyone.


I bought a compression tester today. I don't have the bike running right now (carbs are off, waiting for new jets to arrive), so I wasn't able to warm it up. But I did a cold test, and the results were:

1: 145
2: 140
3: 125
4: 125

All within service limits, but I think you're not supposed to have >10% difference between them, right? I'll wait to do another test on a warm engine and see what I get, but are these preliminary numbers any cause for concern?

This test is supposed to be done with a warm engine, and holding the throttle wide open.

Well, I fabricated a leakdown tester based on the article in the filebase (KZR is soooo awesome!)

This was the result:

Cylinder 1: 9% Crankcase
Cylinder 2: 9% Crankcase
Cylinder 3: 15% Crankcase and head gasket
Cylinder 4: 8% Crankcase

Guess it's time to pull the head, check my valves and replace the headgaskets. Ugh.