TOPIC:

Ok, here is what I did today....first I pulled the main gallery plug above the points cover. Oil film was present. Then I pulled the return hose off the cooler and blew compressed air. A little residual oil and air flowed freely into the main gallery. Then I pulled the input hose off the cooler and blew through. Air and oil flowed freely. Same with the hose from the pressure switch to the cooler.
Then I pulled apart the crankcase breather. I saw nothing abnormal here. I could see a bit of transmission and it was well oiled.
Then I pulled the oil filter. All was normal except the blown out oring...but is the filter bolt supposed to have a spring and check to act as a filter bypass? Like a honda? Well parts fiche does not show this and mine does not have anything.
Finally I removed the cooler adapter that returns oil to the main gallery. Perfectly clean and no obstructions. I tried to get the pressure switch send adapter off without removing carbs but couldn't get it. And I know oil went way past here anyway and now that I think back, I went all through these parts about a year ago before I installed the carbs.

Oh yeah, I blew air into the pressure switch adapter and could feel it coming out where the filter seats. So still stumped....questions
1. Relief valve is in the pump?
2. Could this just be a bad filter? And something wrong with the reluef?
3. My hose to and from the cooler is 3/8...maybe too small, but could that cause problems like this?

Pics

More pics

Just had another thought...
My filter bolt seems too long. Could it be bottoming before the cover gets full tight?

Scirocco wrote: Just for testing the oil flow i would made direct loop oil line and see if your back pressure happens again.

I was going to suggest the same thing.

Also, you could see if the local auto parts store (AutoZone, etc) will loan you an oil pressure tester like this. They often will loan tools for free.

www.harborfreight.com/Engine-Oil-Pressure-Test-Kit-62621.html

It can be connected in place of the galley plug on the right side to confirm that you have pressure after the cooler return line.

seanbarney41 wrote: Just had another thought...
My filter bolt seems too long. Could it be bottoming before the cover gets full tight?

Maybe try a good fitting washer or "gently" try turning the cover as to not un seat the o ring just before it gets tight. Don't go too tight cause I've read of others cracking it by over tightening.

And is there a spring and some kind of vale inside this bolt ? Could this do something like this guys ? I've looked at mine before and really didn't know how it works or how to check that it is.

I saw the spring with the filter. Do you still have the washer? The washer will stick to the filter and thrown away with the filter.

The spring can be used without the washer. I'd put it together, take off the inspection port fitting , fire it up and see if oil comes gushing out. It should take only a few seconds. If not shut it down and find out why.
Steve

I had the washer up until the last disassembly. It is somewhere in my drain pan. All the washer does us protect the filter grommet from the spring.

Lots of things to try here, so thanks. I will update if I find something.

So still not sure why it could be blowing the o ring out. Could this be caused by lack of crankcase breathing

my old brain is fuzzy, but this is my bet

So still not sure why it could be blowing the o ring out. Could this be caused by lack of crankcase breathing

Never ever will a gas medium (blowby pressure in a engine case) compress a liquid like oil.
Open your oil filler opening and you will not feel any over pressure.

ned37 wrote:

So still not sure why it could be blowing the o ring out. Could this be caused by lack of crankcase breathing

my old brain is fuzzy, but this is my bet

ned, I overhauled the crankcase last night and found nothing but the stone axe simple parts Kawasaki put in there...It's all wide open. What could go wrong with it? ...plus what Scirocco said makes perfect sense