RustToRedemption wrote: As everyone else said, hanging/surging idle state is from leaning condition from an air leak more likely than not. Often times, if the air leak is small, it can go undetected by the "spray and listen" test. Have the intake and airbox connector rubbers been replaced? Intake O-ring replaced?
When the bike was running, and then isn't running after I mess with stuff, the first thing I would do is check and double check everything that I messed with. Are you 100% positive you reinstalled the mechanical advancer correctly? Isnt assembling the mechanical advancer 180* backwards a common no-start problem when you've messed with the mechanical advance?
EDIT: Correction for clarity underlined
bluej58 wrote: " installing the mechanical advancer 180* backwards" would definitely make it back fire if you used a starter fluid.
I know this from experience
I've used liquid gasket against the head rubber as a check, new hose clamps, new rubber on pod filter, still wont fire (not even once) with starting fluid added either, only backfires out carb if throttle is held open.
Oh snap, i just realised replaying the pull down/re-build of the advancer in my head that the actual mechanical advancer lobe which controls the points and spark timing can be installed exactly 180 deg out on the advancer base plate, which could, when timed dynamically, show as being timed correctly but is actually firing on the wrong stroke, and timed statically show as being timed correctly but on the stroke.
I have the valve covers off at the moment so Ill check TDC and check what the points are doing.
@bluej58 @RustToRedemption I think you guys might be on the money!
P.S. thats not a cracked arm below, just some moly grease.