TOPIC:

Hello helpful folks.
So I'm one of those guys that would have failed the motorcycle maintenance pre-test but I was essentially given an '83 KZ550 C4 to learn about and get running plus my pockets are shallow. Long-story short, some simple fixes (mostly deep cleaning) got her running again and she was doing great but isn't road legal so my rides have been <1 mile up and down the road for "testing". Chased down some electrical demons after headlight installation and have everything in order except the damn wires on the turn-signal control which keep pulling off of the board in there. I thought this minute soldering job was the last thing before road-readiness so I changed the oil (may have over-filled just a bit to the upper limit line) and cleaned (on the sprockets) and tightened the chain. Now the clutch won't disengage. Bike starts fine in neutral but in first gear the rear wheel spins with full clutch actuation. Bogs when I ease onto the rear brake with clutch pulled all the way in. I replaced the clutch cable because it was very sticky (without obvious damage). As per a YouTube video and my owners manual, I had all of the clutch tension adjustment points tight and tightened the clutch control screw as instructed (all the way counterclockwise to stop and back 1/4 turn). New cable, same problem. When I went back in to make sure everything was lined up correctly and actuating normally, I tried to push the clutch rod manually and it wouldn't budge.
1.) As the bike was shifting and going great before the chain tensioning and oil change, can I assume I did something wrong here that has caused this problem?
2.) What's the next diagnostic or corrective step?
3.) How easily should the pushrod move when depressed manually? Could something be seized up in the clutch assembly?

Thanks for any advice!

Not sure about a KZ550, but for my KZ1100 it's clockwise to stop, then 1/4 turn back with the adjustment screw.

There's a bunch of Kz550 info in the links of my signature. You should check them out before doing a lot more maintenance.
Download all of the manuals even if you already have a hard copy. It's nice to print out just a section you need for a particular task.

Having the oil too high can cause the clutch to slip. It will not cause it to lock up.

Read through the various manuals on clutch actuation to get a sense of what you might have done wrong during cable replacement. It might even be cable routing.

On the thread below, I posted a photo of the actuator internal parts so you can make sure you have everything.
www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/610853-cl...mp-actuator-question

One of the links on my site is for the clutch adjustment.
To adjust it, the cable must be slackened by turning the inline adjuster and lever adjuster.
Then turn the actuator adjustment screw clockwise to loosen.
Then counter-clockwise till it just starts to get tight.
Then clockwise 1/2 turn to loosen.
Then lock it down with the nut. Snug, not too tight. I use anti-seize paste on the screw so it won't rust and seize.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/ClutchReleaseMech.GIF

The wrong Motor oil or a longer no engine movement can "glue" the clutch friction plates together.
Start up the engine with in second gear and took a ride with the clutch leveler allways pulled. At some miles the clutch should began to disengage.

By daveo: Not sure about a KZ550, but for my KZ1100 it's clockwise to stop, then 1/4 turn back with the adjustment screw.

Some models are counterclockwise first until hard to turn, then clockwise 1/4 turn. My 1981 KZ650-CSR is counterclockwise first.

...

With the suddenness of problem onset I would like to know what oil was put in the bike. If it is the wrong type it can and will cause problems with the clutch. If it is the correct type then I would go back to the clutch adjustment process and even make sure the clutch cable is the correct one. Does this bike have a typical "ball and ramp" clutch actuator where the balls must be seated?

Rick H.

It's more likely related to the clutch cable replacement.
As mentioned above in the adjustment post and shown in the link, he has the ball-pocket type of actuator.
In the past, "ball-ramp" has caused confusion because it can refer to two types of actuators.

loudhvx wrote: It's more likely related to the clutch cable replacement.
As mentioned above in the adjustment post and shown in the link, he has the ball-pocket type of actuator.
In the past, "ball-ramp" has caused confusion because it can refer to two types of actuators.

Really? How so? A ball and ramp design can come in different forms, but the theory of operation remains the same.
Rick H.

Rick H. wrote:

loudhvx wrote: It's more likely related to the clutch cable replacement.
As mentioned above in the adjustment post and shown in the link, he has the ball-pocket type of actuator.
In the past, "ball-ramp" has caused confusion because it can refer to two types of actuators.

Really? How so? A ball and ramp design can come in different forms, but the theory of operation remains the same.
Rick H.

I posted images of the differences. Different designs with different part numbers and different adjustment procedures... hence the confusion even in the service manuals, as detailed above.

Okay, I give up! Did the OP find a solution to his problem yet or are we going to be kept in suspense waiting endlessly for the results?

Rick H.

This is why i hate to answer "one hit wonder" questions. You get no introducing, bike pics or any feedback.....

Yes, but sometimes you just wait and then a year later... bam!, a reply pops up.

But the posts still help others who may not even log in to KZR. They will just see a google search result.

When I'm working on a car or bike, I will google and see a result on a forum which leads me in the right direction even if the OP never responded.