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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 16 Jul 2018 07:01 #787035

  • TexasKZ
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Get the valve lash within the specified range before proceeding any farther. Running the engine with no measurable lash is inviting expensive damage.
Trying to compensate by messing with the carbs, will only send you around in frustrating circles. The valves have to be properly adjusted before adjusting the carbs, because badly out of adjustment valves will send weak vacuum signals tto the carbs (and to your vacuum guages), causing the mixture to be too lean.
If you try to overcome this with carb adjustments, you will have to redo the carbs all over again once you finally adjust the valves, and you may have a bunch of burned valves and seats to boot.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 16 Jul 2018 07:13 #787037

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In an earlier post, you said you have downloaded the factory service manual for your bike. Please, please, please, take a few minutes to carefully read the section on adjusting the valve lash. It is not terribly complicated, but the instructions need to be carefully followed. If you gather all the tools, gaskets and such beforehand (including a shim assortment) you can do this on a Saturday. If you cannot find or afford a shim assortment kit, you will need to order the specific shims you need after determining exactly what you need, so the bike will be down a few days. If there is a repair shop nearby that works on these old air cooled bikes, they may be willing to sell you individual shims.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 16 Jul 2018 07:17 #787039

  • agrestixrock
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Yes I have called the shop I go to and he said he has shims I'll need. To remove the shaft I just loosen the bolts on the brackets and it's free? I know the timing has to be perfect. So I will read into it 

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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 16 Jul 2018 07:24 #787040

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After setting the crank at tdc on 1/4, remove the cam cover and related stuff, removed the cam chain tensioner, zip tied the chain to the sprockets, and a dozen lesser things, you can remove the cam follower buckets to access the shims. Please read the manual carefully before you begin.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
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2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 16 Jul 2018 07:24 #787041

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Something simple you can do to minimize any re-installation goofs, is to paint a couple of marks on the timing chain & sprockets using testors model kit paint. Align the timing marks by turning the crankshaft, paint the cam chain & sprockets, then take a good photo before removing anything.  Not the cam chain since I haven't needed to remove that stuff yet, but I painted marks on the drive chain to make lubing it faster.

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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 16 Jul 2018 13:53 #787072

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How do I tell the difference in the cam chain tensioner? Ball lock and cross wedge

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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 16 Jul 2018 14:47 #787078

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The 650-CSR should have the cross-wedge tensioner & it should be pretty obvious as the cross-wedge body is different. compare yours to the pics in the manual. Or look up the part numbers in the diagrams at Partzilla, then check ebbaayy photos.

Locking the tensioner pushrod. cross-wedge type.  Doing this shouldn't be necessary, but the 750-4 manual suggests installing a longer lock bolt in place of the tensioner adjust bolt before removing the tensioner.  It says any M6x16 bolt (1.0 thread pitch) or longer can be used. 110B0616 BOLT HEX HEAD 6X16.  I'd prefer a dog point bolt to prevent gouging the sides of the pushrod groove.  Whatever you end up doing, be sure to reset the tensioner afterwards by removing the cross-wedge then reinstalling it.
...
Warning: do not remove the tensioner adjust bolt when the valve cover is off. The tensioner push rod is under spring pressure & the pushrod could get pushed too far forward by the spring, then fall down into the cam chain tunnel when the cam chain is slackened.

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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 19 Jul 2018 11:19 #787223

  • agrestixrock
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Well I got it all taken apart, I removed tensioner successfully then the cam shaft. I got the correct shims (so I thought) using the chart in the manual. I misread one of the markings on a shim and went way too small because I thought the reading was 230 but it was 250 and the 5 got smeared just right to look like a 3 unless you really look close. Anyways I put the cam shaft back on and tightened the bolts with just a ratchet then decided i needed to torque it to spec so I rented a torque wrench and I misread the spec in ft lbs instead of in lbs needless to say I snapped the first bolt you tighten in the head. Going to try an easy-out and see if that will get it but if not, what are my options? Lesson well learned lol. However the 3 were right in spec for the lash! :P  also I put the shaft back in exactly how I took it out as I carefully picked it up and moved it forward just enough to get to the buckets and kept the chain on the sprocket. When I reinstalled it, i counted the chain links and it was still dead on but when I tightened it down, the IN marking was sitting above the top of the head. Something I'm doing wrong? 

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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 20 Jul 2018 04:09 #787256

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Got it out! All my valve lash is in spec (Got another shim) got a replacement bolt, got the proper torque wrench, both timing marks sit where they are supposed to on TDC and the links from the exhaust to intake is right on. Letting my liquid gasket seal will hopefully fire her up later today! 
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Kz650 h1 1981 late valve timing? 23 Jul 2018 07:19 #787475

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Okay I got the bolt out, got everything put back together timing is correct let the cam end plugs sealant set for 12+ hours. I went on vacation this weekend but before I left I started it up to see how it ran. The idle is much better (less "choppy") but it didn't really want to run without choke and when I gave it more than half throttle it would sputter and die out. Possible I created a vacuum leak taking the carbs on and off? Or could it be that the carbs are just off now that the valves are set correctly. It's been a week since I've ridden and I'm itching lol 

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