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Snakebyte wrote:

You mean to tell me no machine shop will fill in the pits. I seem to recall a shop in Cleveland hear that did a set of double hump SBC X heads that were pitted to hell. They welded, yes welded or something to that efect. Spray weld sound famillar? Then they re surfaced the head. No problems to this day. I believe it was METALS CRANK that did the work. They also do the same to there crankshafts. They can take a 10 10 crank and put the jornals to stock size again.
Check with the shops in the area you might be surprized. Good luck.<br><br>Post edited by: Snakebyte, at: 2006/02/27 05:01

hardchroming and welding up crank journals used to be common practice for making stroker cranks back before you could buy them for $500.00 .if it was some rare old motor it might be feasible ,but you would probably have more money in machine work than he paid for bike.drag motors get a lot of welding and machining done to modify ports and combustion chambers but you get a lot of money wrapped up really quick. goodluck,happy wrenching!

Post edited by: wireman, at: 2006/02/27 09:07

Thanks all, Just wanted to say I finally helicoiled and the bike is back together.

ive helicoild head bolts before and they stood up just fine, ive also heli coiled spark plug holes before, also stood up well.......there easy as pie to do your self, jsut make damn sure that you tap the hole perfectly straight, otherwise your bolts wont go in straight and you will run into problems!

wireman wrote:

allright stick the head in a box and send it to po box 8793 omaha ne 68108 and ill send it back to you ready to go.i could have installed heli-coils,glass beaded and ported it by now! <br><br>Post edited by: wireman, at: 2006/02/27 08:14

Now Now Jim. Take a deep breath and relax. You are beginning to post like I do and you know the controversy I start.
Just joking.
Harry

kx, Yes! Paking sure the new drill holes and taps were straight were a bitch, since I have a drill press the holes were fine, I did drill one hole for my valve cover that went too far but I filled it with RTV and it hasn't leaked yet.

Lickily the head top is level but i would be weary to drill an angled surface/hole like the plug holes. I drilled one of the sarb boot holes and it was pretty off but that angle is not so critical.

I used helicoil brand for cam caps and OEM for some valve cover threads.

These threads hold way better than aluminum. One tricky thing is that I put 2 helicoils in each cam cap thread and if these were off it cause the bolt thread to get mushed but I went very slow and marked where the bottom helicoil stopped. I also found I needed to use the helicoil tool first and the OEM tool second. Funny, the helicoil tool can have a tendency to bend tangs. Oh, some of the tangs almost didn't break off right on the top helicoil.

As I write this, my bike will be known to me as the miracle that survived my novice mechanical skills, thanks all. No offense taken by Jim.....

Thanks all