TOPIC:

The stator is OVER the advancer

Nope!
Stator is on the left side of the bike. You points plate is over your advancer.

To measure the gas in the float bowl:
Use a clear 1/4" plastic tube inserted into where the drain screw goes and hold it up directly against the side of the carb.
When you turn the fuel on the tube will fill up as much as the float bowl fills up.
In the manual, there are spec for how close the fuel level is supposed to be from the top of the bowl.
I'm sure you 750 is different from my 650, so it would be best to check a manual for specs.
(The manual will show you where your stator is too).

I think he's calling the rotor, a "stator", for some reason.

The manual refers to it as a STATOR not a rotor.

I don't frickin know.

There must be some kind of misprint in your manual. The stator is part of the generator/alternator system that is immobile, the gen/alt also has a rotor, which is the permenent magnet that rotates w/in the stator and generates the electricity. The gen/alt is behind the left case cover.
The tube type thing that is attached to your advance is also called a rotor, because it also rotates. What people have been trying to tell you is to hand rotate your engine, using a wrench on the crankshaft nut (I think it's 17mm)to bring the correct timing mark on the advancer into alignment w/the timing pip on the engine case. Then set your point gap, to the correct setting, w/feeler guage or dwell meter. Then you can use a timing light to set the timing according to specs, as wiredgeorge explained above. All this should be in your manual, w/step by step instructions. I'm not sure which way you are supposed to hand rotate the engine, nor do I know off hand what your timing specs are, but all of it should be in the maintainance section of your manual. Are you sure you have the correct manual?
You may still have a problem w/your carbs but it will never start/run right if it's not timed correctly.
Does someone (steell?, toast? you guys are the B twin gurus) have the correct tune-up/timing procedure, for ghunt's bike? I'm sure I have it in my manual, but can't find the manual right now. I haven't had to mess w/points/timing for a long time, as the 750CSR(M) has IE, stock. I even changed my buddies '74 BMW R90 to IE, just so I wouldn't have to mess w/them.
I'll try to dig my manual out, when I get home and scan that procedure, if no one else comes to the rescue before I can get to it.

lets see if this works.
FSM, KZ750 twin, B models, pages 12-14 ignition timing

file too big.
trying something else.




You should be able to download these images and get decent resolution.

OK, just noticed, what I have been calling the rotor, the FSM calls it, the cam.
There's something very wrong. You've never had the advancer off the bike, since it had been running, right? So your original timing marks, on the advancer, shouldn't have changed. You should only have had to rotate the engine until the lobe on the cam has opened the points to it's widest, and adjusted the gap, w/feeler guage, correct? But, I believe you've also said that when you use the timing light the F mark is off to the right of the timing mark, is that correct?

Hey twin guru's, I'm totally confused, is it possible that it's somehow jumped a tooth on the timing chain?

For comparison, here's the 1978 KZ750 twin ignition shown on kawasaki.com, and the parts list (with no "stator" mentioned).

If recalling correctly, the KZ750 twin crankshaft turns "backward" counter-clockwise (like the old BSA 650 twins) when the engine is running. So the points backing plate would be rotated counter-clockwise to retard the timing (lobe reaches point heel later) and clockwise to advance the timing (lobe reaches point heel sooner).

If similar to timing procedure with Z1 and KZ900 points, would begin with backing plate in middle position of the 3 elongated holes. Then set the gap (only the gap at this stage -- not the timing).

With correct gap, and after assuring the advancer unit is properly functioning and not sticking in the advance position, would next try static timing (engine not running) by aligning F mark with case mark at moment points open, and do this by adjusting the points (not the backing plate). Am thinking the points have a separate independent adjustment via one elongated hole and one fixed screw whereby the timing may be advanced or retarded. This is not the separate gap adjustment which has presumedly already been set as above suggested.

When hand turning the crankshaft, do NOT use the smaller bolt inside end of the crankshaft. Do USE the larger 17mm "fake" nut, and turn it counter-clockwise to attain the lobe position against the points heel where the points just begin to open. The larger "fake" nut is there specifically for this purpose to avoid stripping the smaller bolt threads or threads inside the crankcase.

Reposition the backing plate as a last resort.

The static timing should be close enough to get the engine running for next using a strobe-type timing light to finalize the perfect setting and watch the advancer unit in action as rpm is varied.

Most of the above is predicated on experience with Z1 and KZ900 points ignition. Will now patiently await well-deserved crucifixion by a twin guru or so .

Good Luck!

[Click on image for larger view -- hopefully ]




REF NUMBER PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION QUANTITY US CA CN REMARKS


1 312B0600 NUT 6MM 2 KZ750-B1/B2, KZ750-B3/B4


2 461F0600 WASHER SPRING 6MM 4 KZ750-B1/B2


3 21164-005 SWITCH ASSY,MAGNETIC 1


4 21064-002 DAMPER MAG SWITCH SHK 1


5 21061-021 RECTIFIER 1 KZ750-B1/B2


6 461F0600 WASHER SPRING 6MM 3 KZ750-B1/B2


7 311B0600 NUT 6MM 1 KZ750-B1/B2


8 21066-027 REGULATOR 1 KZ750-B1/B2


9 411B0600 WASHER PLAIN 6MM 2 KZ750-B1/B2


10 112G0612 BOLT-UPSET,6X12 2 KZ750-B1/B2, KZ750-B3/B4


11 21121-1174 COIL-IGNITION 1


12 92027-276 COLLAR,IGNITION COIL 2 KZ750-B1/B2, KZ750-B3/B4


13 92003-170 BOLT, IGNITION COIL 2


14 21132-005 GROMMET,SPARK PLG CAP 2


15 21130-1007 CAP-SPARK PLUG,RTFM20 2


16 21131-004 GROMMET-PLUG CAP,A 2


17 92001-1397 BOLT-8X63 1


18 92022-244 WASHER,SPARK ADVANCER 1


19 21008-1013 BREAKER ASSY,CONTACT 1 KZ750-B1/B2, KZ750-B3/B4


20 220B0512 SCREW PAN HEAD 5X12 3


21 461F0500 WASHER SPRING 5MM 3


22 411B0500 WASHER PLAIN 5MM 3


23 220B0406 SCREW PAN HEAD 4X6 2


24 461F0400 WASHER SPRING 4MM 2


25 21008-025 BREAKER,CONTACT 1 KZ750-B1/B2, KZ750-B3/B4


26 21019-005 FELT OIL 1


27 21013-034 CONDENSER 1 KZ750-B1/B2, KZ750-B3/B4


28 26001-1040 WIRING HARNESS,BRAKE 1 KZ750-B1/B2, KZ750-B3/B4


29 21148-1004 ADVANCER,AUTO TIMING 1 KZ750-B1/B2, KZ750-B3/B4


30 21160-005 CAP,SPARK PLUG 2 X CANADA KZ750-B3/B4


8-1 21066-029 REGULATOR 1 KZ750-B3/B4

Don't know why you guy's are hollering for help. you seem to have it pretty well covered

Well, I think I found my problem this evening, and I feel like an idiot.

First off, I did set the timing (static) with my ohmmeter. I started the bike and it ran...it was running poorly, but it didn't shut off. I noticed I was getting some black smoke out of the right side exhaust, and if I revved it, got quite a bit of black smoke from that side and some whitish-gray smoke from the other side.

I decided it had to be carb related...I checked the float levels, the left side carb was a little high. Went ahead and pulled the carbs off so I could go over them.

I pulled the top cap off and the jet needle fell out, and I knew something wasn't right. Apparently, somehow, when I put everything back together, I put the spring seat in first and THEN put the jet needle in, so it had just been up inside the spring and wasn't doing anything. It was like that on both sides.

I put everything back together RIGHT (and adjusted the float a little on the left carb), and put the bike back together...it was late so I didn't get to try it, but I have a feeling that's what was causing all these headaches. The carb was just full of gas, there was gas all over the place.

Sorry for all the trouble I've caused, sheesh.

Congratulations on finding the problem. I actually did the same thing, luckily I realized my mistake before reinstalling them. Sorry I got you misled on the ignition. You might want to get some "SeaFoam" and put in in your gas, it does a pretty good job of cleaning the insides of the carb.