TOPIC:

There won't be much room left there. I have an electronics tray that goes in there also. R/R, M-unit and starter relay will be under the tray. I still have a couple of tricks up my sleeve to show off once the engine is put together. I have been told the the under the seat mount was a bad idea due to air flow restrictions. If it proves to not get enough air during Arizona summer ridding, I have enough room on the back to mount a fan.

congrats on the cylinder and cam score.
you could check the end gaps and if they are good go with a light hone and rollem.
by light hone i mean like half a dozen strokes with a ball hone or light hone pressure if adjustable

oh btw, what size are those fuel funnels you pictured sir ???
leon.

kaw-a-holic wrote:

swest wrote: Those look like the early cast pistons. I'll post some pics in the morning of the forged billet and cast pistons. By the look of them, they might be 10.5/1 or better. TTYL.
Steve

Thanks Steve, your a fountain of information. I believe you are right about them being cast, they look like it. They will work for now. I can upgrade them later if needed.

These are the Wiseco 10.25/1 pistons. The one on the left is the forged billet type and the other is a cast one. I know the rings are the same. I suggest checking with Z1 or wiseco to verify the compression. The rings for mine were $11 and change. I'd buy new rings and forget it. The cast piston was bought in 78. They just don't make them anymore so I had to but the billet ones at $125 a pop.
Steve

You'll notice the billet pistons are lighter that the forged. That makes a big difference on vibration and some on rev. Kawasaki made the KZ 1000 crank heavier to compensate for the bore size and weight of the pistons. In theory the 900 crank should spin up faster on acceleration but the vibration is more as well. I have a Z2 750 crank so I was expecting even more acceleration. That hasn't been proven but I did notice less vibration with the billet pistons.
Steve

531blackbanshee wrote: congrats on the cylinder and cam score.
you could check the end gaps and if they are good go with a light hone and rollem.
by light hone i mean like half a dozen strokes with a ball hone or light hone pressure if adjustable

oh btw, what size are those fuel funnels you pictured sir ???
leon.

I don't know guys might think i'm crazy for buying them and not knowing but many people were submitten offer and I did not want to loose them so I bought them. I figured to scenerios, 1 they are 26s same as I have but still a better carb or 2 they are to big and I have to sell them. Either way I got them @ $450 which is close to half price. Guys on my Facebook forum seem to think they are 29s.

They didn't say? I think they are bigger than that. Nice carbs.

kaw-a-holic wrote: Merry Christmas to me. Bought a 1075 kit used off of eBay along with some Andrews 1X cams. Cylinder walls look good. I have not put a mic in them yet. The pistons are marked with the Wisco stamp on the bottom but there is nothing on top to tell me what the compression will be. I still think that they are 10.25s. Should I buy new rings or just check the gap on the ones that the pistons came with? The cams will need a tiny clean up were they sit in bearings but everything else is good. Do I need adjustable timing gears on them or let them ride the way they are?

These are still enroute.

Those are "drop in" cams. You can use the stock sprockets as long as the cam chain set up is the same.

swest wrote: They didn't say? I think they are bigger than that. Nice carbs.

no I think that is the only reason someone didn't beat me to them. I'm hoping for 29's or 31's.

As for the cams, is there any benefit to adding adjustable timing gears?

I suspect they be 32-34's. I hope so. The 26's are good carbs whether they're popular or not. Get some late model boots if they are. Better to go up (within reason) than stay put and spend money doing it.

As for the cam sprockets, Not if you have the early style cam chain. That's why they are called drop ins. If you have the Hi Vo, you might have a problem.
Steve

The Keihin CR carbs come in odd numbered sizes (29, 31, 33, 35 etc...) and the size is stamped on each carb body. The stamps come off sometimes though.

On the cam sprockets, you can go with slotted sprockets if you want to degree them. There is supposed to be a performance difference but it's a lot of work for something you might never notice. As long as you have the correct number of teeth you should be good. 15 tooth crank=30 tooth cam sprockets, 16t crank=32t sprockets. Good luck!

Now that's why I like it here. Wish it was around when I first started wrenching.
Steve