TOPIC:

zed1015 wrote: Finally got the head fitted and as usual the top idler rubbers are well past their sell by date so i knocked up some billet substitutes similar to those available from APE etc.
I used the original hollow dowels from the old rubber blocks pressed in the center to lock the whole assembly together.

While i was at it with the hammers i threw together a manual tensioner from an ally offcut, some nuts and a stainless bolt with the head machined round.

Just need to degree in the cams and that's the bulk of the motor done.

what is the allen head bolt in the bottom rear corner of the head for?

mark1122 wrote: what is the allen head bolt in the bottom rear corner of the head for?

I removed all the original oil gallery blanking plugs when cleaning the engine after blasting and rather than replace them with more alloy bungs i tapped them M8 and fitted the allen bolts for future ease of cleaning.
There are three each side of the head and the one at the bottom rear is for the cross drilling between the inlet and exhaust cam feed.
There is no way to ensure that passage is clear without removing the bung.

as usual,from u, another Great idea.

zed1015 wrote:

mark1122 wrote: what is the allen head bolt in the bottom rear corner of the head for?

I removed all the original oil gallery blanking plugs when cleaning the engine after blasting and rather than replace them with more alloy bungs i tapped them M8 and fitted the allen bolts for future ease of cleaning.
There are three each side of the head and the one at the bottom rear is for the cross drilling between the inlet and exhaust cam feed.
There is no way to ensure that passage is clear without removing the bung.

Actually, flushing out the head oil galley is pretty easy and you don't need to drill out anything. By blocking off the stud holes with your fingers they can be flushed out with a hose after they are degreased.

Water will shoot out of the cam journal oil holes a good 4 feet.

Your engine looks GREAT! You do nice work!!

LarryC wrote: Actually, flushing out the head oil galley is pretty easy and you don't need to drill out anything. By blocking off the stud holes with your fingers they can be flushed out with a hose after they are degreased.

Water will shoot out of the cam journal oil holes a good 4 feet.

Your engine looks GREAT! You do nice work!!

Thanks.

I've done hundreds of heads and wouldn't normally pull the bungs but this head had been stood a long time and there's always that nagging doubt that there's something still lurking in there, especially after blasting.

Degreed the cams in this afternoon.
They are std so set them at 110 deg.
Might play about with the lobe centers once i've done a few miles and seen how it runs



While i had the degree disc on i took the opportunity to fit the ignition windings and rotor and set the static timing
(Aligned the yellow markings with the crank set at 10 deg btdc)


Which gave me chance to test fit the stone guard.
The finished item will be painted black




Toying with the idea of putting in a few vents ???
opinions welcome

zed1015 wrote: Toying with the idea of putting in a few vents ???
opinions welcome

Great work as always, i think the vents would look very trick. i like the kidney shape of them as well, looks more factory than just some holes.

maybe just try a series of round holes. maybe something like 3/8" ??

Zed, hope you don't mind if I ask a few dumb questions. Since I have never seen this type of set up before. So from what it looks like, you are installing an electronic ignition in place of where the stator resides, correct? I'm anxious to know, were and what will take place of the stator?

Love your work and ingenuity.

KZJOE900 wrote: Zed, hope you don't mind if I ask a few dumb questions. Since I have never seen this type of set up before. So from what it looks like, you are installing an electronic ignition in place of where the stator resides, correct? I'm anxious to know, were and what will take place of the stator?

Love your work and ingenuity.

Hi,yes! correct.
It's a self generating race ignition which needs no battery.
Just like a dirt bike you only need to kick it over and away you go.
It has an electronic advance curve built in and a kill switch on the bars to switch off.
I won't be fitting a charging system but will be running a total loss battery in the seat tail to run the brake light and horn which is the minimum requirement for daytime running over here.

water isn't going to effect it?

mudhole splash,dead bike ?

i like the kidney shaped holes myself ,

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: water isn't going to effect it?

mudhole splash,dead bike ?

i like the kidney shaped holes myself ,

leon

Water wouldn't normally effect it,i have seen plenty of race bikes running these in the wet with no cover fitted at all.
But then you really think i will be taking this bike out in the wet ?