TOPIC:

mark1122 wrote: I get a lot of guys looking at me when i ride the KZ.

Stay out of those particular neighborhoods and that will stop ... sorry Mark...that begged for a response

LarryC wrote:

mark1122 wrote: I get a lot of guys looking at me when i ride the KZ.

Stay out of those particular neighborhoods and that will stop ... sorry Mark...that begged for a response

Ha! I was looking for your house Larry.

mark1122 wrote:

LarryC wrote:

mark1122 wrote: I get a lot of guys looking at me when i ride the KZ.

Stay out of those particular neighborhoods and that will stop ... sorry Mark...that begged for a response

Ha! I was looking for your house Larry.

I don't live near Dave...what were you thinking

Good 1 bud.

hei larry, people here fit 34's to 810's and you dont say a word?

T & mark,

dynoing all carb configs, 29's, 31's, 34's is all fun and fine, most likely the 34's will also give excellent max power too. thing is that dyno runs are done with WOT and unless you build a special jig to do runs at fixed partial openings, you will not know much about partial throttle response at mid revs.

in road racing, i am most of the time even higher than 4000, more like 6-7000 rpm at corner apex and still, getting good drive out of corners depends on having high air speed inside the venturi. have no way to prove it but this graph from mikuni is quite interesting... as you can see, they assume that a 34mm carb is good for 30-35 hp per cylinder... do the math and dont worry, wont bother you again with "size issues"

I dont doubt you at all. In fact I agree with you. As I said before, I bought mine because they were so much cheaper than CR's. If I was racing like you I'd be all over a set of CR's.

OK. i rest my case

turboguzzi wrote: hei larry, people here fit 34's to 810's and you dont say a word?

T & mark,

dynoing all carb configs, 29's, 31's, 34's is all fun and fine, most likely the 34's will also give excellent max power too. thing is that dyno runs are done with WOT and unless you build a special jig to do runs at fixed partial openings, you will not know much about partial throttle response at mid revs.

in road racing, i am most of the time even higher than 4000, more like 6-7000 rpm at corner apex and still, getting good drive out of corners depends on having high air speed inside the venturi. have no way to prove it but this graph from mikuni is quite interesting... as you can see, they assume that a 34mm carb is good for 30-35 hp per cylinder... do the math and dont worry, wont bother you again with "size issues"

I've given up. You and I both know a rack of 29mm CRS with a good pipe will make the motor sing a sweet tune but the cost kills the deal for a lot of guys.

RS34's will work on an 810cc motor. Not ideal but certainly better than those BS34 pieces of pot metal.

It's a shame Keihin doesn't get their CRS prices in line with what guys can really afford. I'd say it's better to sell them for a little profit than to watch the competition out sell you.....but hey, that's just me

If [BIG IF] you got say half a dozen guys to commit to buying CRS29's and called contacted Dynoman.net, you might be able to swing a sweet deal on 6 sets. That guy keeps his prices reasonable and I know for a fact that he's worked with at least one of my customers with pricing when he bought carbs and cams as the same time.

turboguzzi wrote: hei larry, people here fit 34's to 810's and you dont say a word?

T & mark,

dynoing all carb configs, 29's, 31's, 34's is all fun and fine, most likely the 34's will also give excellent max power too. thing is that dyno runs are done with WOT and unless you build a special jig to do runs at fixed partial openings, you will not know much about partial throttle response at mid revs.

in road racing, i am most of the time even higher than 4000, more like 6-7000 rpm at corner apex and still, getting good drive out of corners depends on having high air speed inside the venturi. have no way to prove it but this graph from mikuni is quite interesting... as you can see, they assume that a 34mm carb is good for 30-35 hp per cylinder... do the math and dont worry, wont bother you again with "size issues"

Interesting chart. Last time I flowed RS34's I think they were about 114CFM @10". That's way more than an 810 motor needs for very high Ve value. I think the CRS29's were in the mid to high 80 CFM range.... would have to look at my notes.

Throttle response under 4000 RPM on old 2 valve Kawasaki motors is relevant to a lot of things. Camshaft selection being a significant contributor. Accelerator pump vs no pump. Rolling on the throttle vs wacking it full...etc.

I didn't set that head up for 34mm carbs as I recall. It's been a few years now so I don't remember all the details.

I had RS36 on my 1197 and they throttled beautifully from anywhere in the RPM range.

Another thing that irks me is when people jump to the conclusion that RS34's will make significantly more top end power than a "GOOD" rack of CV 34's. That's hog wash. I've seen it with my own eyes and I'm not talking about BS34's but CVK 34's. Not a huge gain in drag strip ET or MPH from swapping CVK for RS34. I was surprised. But on the road...in real world riding conditions, the performance carbs really shine in the acceleration department when you pick the right set.

What I really want is a set of mikuni TMR28's. I bet they'd do the job better than anything. Too bad they cost $1600 a set.

Right now, I'm going to tune those RS34's to work as well as they can on my bike, and enjoy the bike for this year. If and when I decide to try out soemthing different I'll let everyone know how it works out.

I agree with you on the guys from Dynoman Larry. Those guys run a tight ship. I bought my pistons, and some other key stuff from them. very good service and some of the best prices around.

i think most of the valuable points have been mentioned hear. my guess would be that the tmr28"s would be the best carb available for an 810to 1000cc, today.
there r so many variables . all the carbs we mentioned have pros and cons. 34's and smoothbores, lack bottom end and 28 lack top. i think either 1 on an 810 would be a good compromise. i would prefer to suggest the vm28's, and RS34's due to price. i think the 28 pumpers will have the best bottom end due to the slide shape. smoothbore slide design is know to produce less low rpm,vacumm, than a solid slide design, do to the large cavity created under the slide at low openings. therefore, the produce less bottom end than the solid slide 28"s. but everyone jumps on the smoothbore band wagon because they were run on racebikes. the RS flatslides improve on the bottom and top end due, to the slide design. but unfortunately they only offer them in 34mm which is a little large for max bottom end,but i dont think it would suffer much in a side be side comparison to the 29 smoothies.
TMR's seem to be the 1 to try, but the price , makes them a rare find.
i dont know the year or models, but there r some old gsx32 flatslide available, but im not sure why they r not popular?
Turbo, no need to rest your case.
we all have our favourite opinions, and for dif reasons. These r my reasons, but until i try them all back to back on the same bike, they r only opinions.

there's another option.... the stock flatslides that were on early GSXR750's... might be the smallest flatlsides available, they were called VM29SS Flat-valve. originally restricted to 29, they can be easily opened to quite a lot more, would look for them if they were allowed in my vintage class. as is, we are limited to round slides.