sdinse wrote:

Hmmmm . . .  I get this from clicking on that PDF link:ForbiddenYou don't have permission to access this resource.Additionally, a 403 Forbidden error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.


Any special reason for that?Thanks SlimJim & Z1BEBE, good info to know.  I will put in the updated assembly.








 

Sorrry.  Our attachment-fu is stymied on this site sometimes. 
We attached that .pdf file two different ways, because we're not sure how the site handles .pdf files.  The live link seems broken.  There's also an icon at the bottom of the post that is the same .pdf file.  Clicking that enables downloading & viewing, or right-clicking enables 'save link as' function, at least on Firefox.

We'll re-scan as a .jpg. below & edit that other post if it's not too late.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Agree with TexasKZ.  Brake pedals can be difficult to remove if the pivot rusted badly.  Penetrating oil & patience always works. A drop or two of oil every season will keep them working freely.

In addition, there is the shaft that passes through the brake backing plate that rotates a few degrees when the brake pedal is pressed.  If it's the original factory grease, that grease has likely become very stiff & sticky with age.  Remove the shaft from the backing plate, clean the shaft and the bushing it passes through on the backing plate.  Lube the shaft, bushing & large pin the brake shoes pivot on.with brake grease & reassemble.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Lenster wrote:

That’s a fast stretch of road there coming into Kamloops from the East. 


 

Every time I drive into Kamloops I enjoy the view of the ancient river bluffs along the South Thompson River.  Lots of Alberta plates go whizzing by me.

ckahleer wrote:

Clean it the best you can as it sets. Then disassemble and give each part a good cleaning.

Agreed... start with this: www.google.com/search?q=electrical+contact+cleaner


 

I did it like in this video  ,but did not file/drill out the rotor for the lugs because the rotor did not interfere with the engine ignition cover when putting it back on.The instructions says that it is not needed to file/drill if the rotor not thutch the cover. I used blue locktite on the 13mm bolt     

Yes! I got the starter one ok. Will get the engine grounded. Thank you!

Turmeric for pain, Glucosamine and Chondroitin For joint health. All natural. 
Been taking it for years. 
Steve

It says kz750ee1535 on the engine case. But I think I do remember reading somewhere that the ee is an e1. Still doesn't show right parts diagram for the starter motor though if it is. 

Do you have any pictures of how you made the push rod work? I got a new master and it has a 1/4” threaded push rod, which I need to somehow adapt onto the old larger thread rod size. Thanks! 

No video.

If you are talking about the rear brake, a common problem is rust and crud in the foot lever pivot. Disconnect the rod to the rear brake and see if the lever moves freely. If not, it needs to be removed so all the crud and rust can be removed, then the pivot should be lightly greased before reassembly.