Welcome from Germany

Looks like a weak starter relay, the internal copper switsh could be burnd or molten.
Prüf mal bitte das Anlasser Relais und versuch mal dies bei eingebauten Anlasser über die Anlasser Zuleitung
direkt mit dem Batterie Plus zu überbrücken.

I know Im basically just talking to myself at this point but I want to circle back and tie this off. 
I torqued it all down this morning and measured all the valve clearances. The math from my previous paperwork and what I was expecting line up more or less but less, as in the spacers I used didnt give me the exact clearances I should have gotten. I think i was nervous when I was measuring originally. SO...... with my new found skill and understanding from you guys I tore the cams off again, this time maintaining the timing thank god and replace two of the shims. 
the numbers I ended up with are as follows:

.14   ,14  .14 .13 
.13   .11   .15   .10 

Id like to set the intake side to a closer spec like the exhaust but I need to order some shims. for now I think the numbers are ok. well within spec except for the one .10 which is in obviously just low. I learned alot doing this job about how easy the head is to work on and how accessible. Im thinking maybe do a valve job in the future for fun. 

Going to re clean the carbs and button it up once the cover gasket shows up. Had to order OEM off fleabay due to it being NLA. 

cheers and much thanks 

If you cant find the correct axle then a last resort may be to find the right die and just extend the existing threaded section and cut off the excess. 

or bring the bolt/axle to a machine shop and tell them what you want.

dude that looks amazing!!! 

That main fuse doesn't blow when I use the blinkers. I have no idea what caused it to blow the first time, actually. For now I ran some voltage readings on the brown wire and the tachometer light and found that both are only receiving about 10-11 volts max. 

Could undervolting be the cause of the issue? The battery's fine-- i just charged it recently and it's been giving me 12v everywhere else I've tested it. From what i understand that means I might have a terminal or a ground I have to inspect. 

Both ground wires with the ring terminals connect o battery negativ.
The ground ring terminal have connect to the right engine case next to the upper rear engine mount.
The ground bullet connector to the main wiring loom.

Hello,
as I am new here and just getting added to the forum. I just picked up a 2006 Kaw ZG1000 Conours and am trying to learn more about the bike from other riders.
Mine has 26,000 miles on the clock and is in good running shape. I jetted the carbs up a little bit and ordered a new K & N air filter for the stock airbox.

A 1/4” threaded push rod is unusual on a Japanes MC as push rod, it should be a M8 threaded push rod like the 1/2" Nissen MC.
You can couple the stock push rod end via a M8 threaded socket onto the Nissen push rod.

 
 

Welcome from the UK. Bench testing a starter doesn't really tell you a lot as there is no load on it. When you say you connected the battery to the starter directly was that positive and ground ?

AdAstra029 wrote:

NEVERMIND 

Whatever blew the tail light the first time apparently isn't an issue anymore-- I reinstalled the fuse that blew the first time and flicked it on and the stop light WORKED so now we're just trying to figure out the blinkers.

Would the possible short we found on the blue fuse affect that issue at all? No - the blue wire only feeds the headlight dip switch. The blinkers are fed from the brown wire which is the main ignition live powered by the 20 amp main fuse. Does it matter which side blinker you operate that causes the fuse to blow ?