Hello! Now that i've finally got the bike running reliably i've started looking at stuff that hasn't been hooked up. One of them being the kill Switch and a key switch. On this bike there is a brown wire and a yellow one with a red Stripe. The yellow one goes into the headlight to make the starter work but the brown one for now is just danglin in there. Where is the brown one supposed to go for the kill Switch to work. Kinda new to electrics. Its not ground cause that just made the starter spin whenever it was set to run...
 

Hard to start when warm is a classic example of poor compression, commonly caused by overly tight valves.  

First things first: DO ALL maintenance.  Waiting for the bike to fail before doing maintenance, can cause damage.

Wookie58 wrote:

If you email it to me as a PDF I will put in on the filebase 

 

If right clicking on the .pdf attachment (not the live link) & selecting 'save link as' doesn't work we can do that.  Send us an email & we'll attach in response.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

LasseT wrote:

@ Rolf1976_KZ900
hi Rolf, I'm from Sweden.

@ Warren3200gt
I think I just looked at what spark plug was in the engine when I bought a new one, in my doc it says B7ES.
I'll buy a B7ES and check what happens

@ Scirocco
ok, I'll check the valve clearence, but wouldn't you here if the clearence is to small (valves not closing) when you pull of the gas handle?
I guess it could also be piston rings, but it doesn't smoke black.



 

You wouldn't necessarily "hear" anything but the valves would be closed for less time so the motor can't build pressure (same as long duration performance cams lower static compression for the same reason)
 

@ Rolf1976_KZ900
hi Rolf, I'm from Sweden.

@ Warren3200gt
I think I just looked at what spark plug was in the engine when I bought a new one, in my doc it says B7ES.
I'll buy a B7ES and check what happens

@ Scirocco
ok, I'll check the valve clearence, but wouldn't you here if the clearence is to small (valves not closing) when you pull of the gas handle?
I guess it could also be piston rings, but it doesn't smoke black.


 

That voltage is low on the brown line. What is the battery voltage?
With everything connected put your red meter lead on battery + black meter lead connected to the brown wire (with it still connected) now switch on the ignition. Any more than approx 0.5v indicates a "resistance" fault. Follow the resistance fault section of the "elec diagnosis" guide (link in my signature) to find the point where the voltage drops (could be multiple smaller drops along the way due to corroded connectors etc)
It is unlikely that this alone is the blinker issue as the flasher unit works on current not voltage.

You couldn’t just swap out the pulleys and belt for the sprockets and chain, using the existing swingarm and such? That is what I did when I converted my belt drive 750.

Or use a spacer on the axle to make up the difference.  ( 1 on each end might look better)

There are a few on ebay at the moment. Unsure how to distinguish belt from chain type. At least one of those on offer includes a measurement

That is what I was thinking might be the easiest way to go.