This is for the 1981CSR 1000 but it’s got to be the same. I don’t find the Spectre parts fishe showing the bolt and spacer.
www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kz1000m1-csr-1981...partslist/66904.html

 

Thanks for the info. So, from what I read it is a 1981, kz1000m1,csr,  new J engine. Mainly because it has spoke wheels. Is this correct?

You wouldn't have like being born in my generation. We had to go to libraries, buy service manuals mail order, and had to actually take out loans and attend a trade school to learn. After graduation we had student loans to repay. Printed service manuals, magazine subscriptions and catalogs were the only other sources of info on the "latest' stuff. None of this point and click, YouTube crap! nope.. Researching anything was actually WORK.

Well, if you have flimsy meter leads, you aren't checking anything very good. If the leads are frayed and broken.. may be the FIRST place to start. HF has a half way decent test light for unter 5 bucks. Other than resistance testing, a test light helps immensely. I use mine frequently. I have one in my truck too so that I can check for power on my truck if it screws up. (very seldom does it let me down, starts every time) Good troubleshooting skills / habbits is not a one time thing, it is a way of life and transfers onto everything you do.

I have had several Kz1000's,, and I have rescued and sold many other bikes in the past. It takes years in some cases to get your bike to the point my "keeper" is in. I totally disassembled this bike, cleaned up every freakin part, then reassembled it piece by piece. In the mean time I still had my other Kz1000M1, so I got my 100 hp therapy from that, while building this bike. Take your time, and restore it to stock is my recommendation if you want a fast and >dependable< Kz1000. Those smart jap engineers are a tough act to follow. It's tough doing anything offsite. There are some guys on here that have done some awesome restorations in a second floor apartment. I bet management loved the paint work and the greasy stuff. Dishwashers work great to clean some things. I use mineral spirits and a part brush, then hose things off with a garden hose, and finally, blow dry with compressed air.



10' X 10' shed workshop.


BTW, instead of wasting more money on new pods, have you even considered looking for a OEM air box to fit that bike? There are reasons the air box was used. HS speed air flow being one of them. Some people leave them off, because they aren't smart enough to put a simple fkin air box back on. There is no performance improvement to be gained using those funky pods, and the air turbulence in the outside carbs screws up the fuel mixtures at speed.

Welcome Kari, I had an 81 Kz1000M1 (CSR) a few years ago. At 10K miles, your engine is a pretty low mile survivor, and is nowhere near worn out. Mine was a real screamer, the same that my present daily rider kz is. My CSR had sat so long in the same spot, that I had to loosen up the calipers to get it to roll onto my trailer. Check out the rust stains on the concrete. :S


With the exception of the exhaust header and the pod filters, it looks to be all stock. The pods can cause problems. These vacuum carbs are designed to work in unison with the air box.
You will find that stagnant gas turns into a varnish sludge in the fuel system, and plugs up the passages / jets . There is a host of different chemicals that will cut it. I have probably used them all at one time or another. Lacquer thinner will help with varnish. Try to avoid the corrosive acidic chemicals The carbs are not hard to clean. There are a lot of little parts to clean out. Also note that I went to great lengths to locate a stock air box for both of my Kz's. They both rev out to red line, with no spitting and sputtering. All yours needs is a fuel system cleaning and a podectomy. lol :whistle:


If left sitting in the elements, there are other things that deteriorate in a different manner.

Charles 750B wrote:
First, I'm new here.

<snip>

Gas tank lined with Kreem (as far as it looks, no goo is coming out petcock)
<snip>

Im 20 years old so I dont need any sass...

<snip>

Please help if you can! I will try to post pics if asked for them (what exactly do I need to get pics of in that case?)

At 20 years old you are on the right path to making friends and influencing people. Sometimes certain comments are easily taken out of context, and it is usually best not to jump straight into "attack mode" when someone new is asking for help or while reading the comments. Sometimes the lack of reading comprehension is rampant in this day and age, or the comments was not fully understood. I see this all of the time here, there, EVERYWHERE. Some ego's can be too great to think someone else might have a different opinion. Just sayin.

Keep in mind that most who do reply to your questioning > actually are trying to help<, it's up to you to be able to decipher and actually use the info that others take their time to share while passing on their own experiences. It's all a big guessing game, especially with no pics. We have yet to see ANY pics of this bike. In case you haven't notice yet.. A pic is worth 1000 words. It helps put things into the proper perspective.

That said a few overall pics would show what WE are dealing with and some closeups of the carbs / holders, etc. Also be sure to insert the pics into your topics, so that they show in your comments, not a thumbnail. Some moderators will fix it for you a few times, but want you to learn how to do it yourself. I googled the BS38 carbs high idle and and got 13,000 results in .055 seconds. They were also used on the Yamaha XS-650 and there is a ton of info and video's on them at your disposal.

This is my 81 Kz1000M1. I sold this bike years ago. The pic shows the carbs well.


Why Kreme? Tank liners IMHO are meant to fix pinholes after the tank is cleaned of iron oxide (rust). I spent a lot of time / money removing the kreme in my tank, then I used $100.00 worth of metal rescue to remove the rust that was under it.

old_kaw wrote:

daveo wrote: Would $3,500 be too much?

IMHO $3500 is too much for a rough bike, although it is rare and mostly still intact. Does it actually RUN,? (not basically)

In this area, I have seen some pretty nice Kz1000's on CL for ~2500 bucks, and they were advertised for a long time. Every time I try to sell a bike, unless it's something like my 81 Kz1000M1, the lowballers swarm on it.

I just did a search on the STL CL and this popped. Although it is a 2000 ZRX1100 water cooled with 14K original miles. Here is some leverage..

stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/d/saint-louis...saki/6855088591.html

I would offer $1K and see how they act. April id prime bike selling time here in the lou, but may be different where you live.

Funny you say that I was thinking around 1000-1500 before he posted price . But I never buy a bike unless its a really good deal

daveo wrote: Would $3,500 be too much?

IMHO $3500 is too much for a rough bike, although it is rare and mostly still intact. Does it actually RUN,? (not basically)

In this area, I have seen some pretty nice Kz1000's on CL for ~2500 bucks, and they were advertised for a long time. Every time I try to sell a bike, unless it's something like my 81 Kz1000M1, the lowballers swarm on it.

I just did a search on the STL CL and this popped. Although it is a 2000 ZRX1100 water cooled with 14K original miles. It has new michelin tires and a few mods, that may or may not be a good thing.

Here is some leverage..

stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/d/saint-louis...saki/6855088591.html

I would offer $1K and see how they act. April is prime bike selling time here in the lou, but may be different where you live.

I just wanted to introduce myself a little and share a little of my experience and formal training..
I was a US Army mechanic from 1972-1975 when I ETS'd out of Fort Dix NJ.. from there I took a 2 year course majoring in auto mechanics using my GI bill for tuition. The military was probably the best thing I did for my self in my life.. what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, ya know. While in the Army, I bought a brand new 1974 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 off the showroom floor in Albert Lea MN. What a POS.. I took off on this brand new bike, and it wasn't 500 miles before it started puking oil out of the rear cylinder.. it seems the morton putting the wrist pin keepers in the pistons just didn't give a sh!t enough about his job to do it properly, and the rear jug was scored badly by the time I limped this bike home. Like I said, what doesn't kill you, makes you stronger. Did I mention this is / was a POS? Funny how one idiot doing a one little shitty job can almost put a company out of business.. This was an AMF machine.. so this was during their reprieve they had just been given to survive.. well.. enough on the Harley, EXCEPT this was also during the time of the Z1's and H2's, Mach III's etc.. all of them would just zing past me and my bitch a$$ Harley. lol I test rode a few new triple Kaws and all I really remember was that I had trouble keeping the front wheel on the ground.
Oh yeah.. back to my training.. I hated working as a mechanic, my hands, door knobs, steering wheel, etc being greasy black most of the time, the smell of cleaning solvent, diesel and gas, etc. (not really, but always something greasy on me or my clothes), I worked at several car steaerships, and a few small repair shops.. some OK, and some just plain dishonest thieves. I never seemed to last around the thieves at all, for some reason.. Perhaps we just didn't agree on a lot of things. Go figger!
Well.. I also did some stints at industrial maintenance and repairs, and a lot of my auto mechanics technical, electronics, physics and math applies to industrial principles too. In general, I have always been reasonably good at whatever I have done, no matter what it has been..
I have also worked at CATV for 10 years and pulled in the token ring LAN system on Naval Air Station Norfolk VA in 1986, and Naval Weapons Station Yorktown, in 1987. Norfolk was particularly dificult, because my crew was pulling .875" coax trunk cable for manhole to manhole.. Every day they were required to be monitored for the presence of jet fuel vapors / volatility and toxicity levels. I had to pump fresh air in constantly to keep from having to drag my men out of them dead. An extremely never racking project. It turned out great!
Fast forward to 1992.. I went back to college graduating with a Associates Degrees in Electronics Engineering Technology. Missouri Tech is / was considered a "technical college" and sadly to say, I head they went belly up last year. They had been in business for 65 years when I graduated, so It looks like they almost made it to 90 years before going bust.
Oh yeah.. MOTORCYCLES.. Well.. I am a licensed, bonded and insured contractor here where I live, and over the last few years, when things that actually pay bills get slow, I try to work on SOMETHNG that is not a total waste of time, and perhaps has some value when I get it going. (compared to working for free for a-holes) Of the last 5 motorcycles I bought, 4 have had screwed up titles.. so I also found the need to be able to deal with the state and have titles reissued..

I do need to do something other than type out this auto-biography, but am open to answer any questions or PM's Elvis has left the building. LOL
I see others here helping others, with some good solid info.

My home made work bench It's build for srength, so I can really wail on whatever.


My little MIG.. I hate the No-gas welding.. it splatters soo freakin bad.


This is my first 81 KZ1000M1 rescue.. It had sat there so long, notice the rust spots on the pavement under the bike? I had to remove the calipers to roll it from that spot.

The way i'm thinking of modding the seat is the tail piece would actually get attached to the pan and not the frame, and probably have a small storage compartment inside the extra space. This way, if i wanted to go back to the original m seat, it's just 2 pins. I may also use a 70's tail piece too