24 volt on board starter

Ive heard that some drag racers are using a 24v on board starting system on their high compression drag bikes. Anyone know about this? I want to do away with my remote starter.

drag racers using out of the engine 24 volt high power starter systems that engaged on the left side crank hub or rear wheel driven starter roller.

Here is a setup for the Hyabusa, perhaps they could recommend something for the KZ.

www.dragbike.com/tiger-racing-return-of-...auto-charge-harness/

Here is a dyi wiring diagram

store.schnitzracing.com/24-volt-starter-wiring-diagram/

wrote:

Ive heard that some drag racers are using a 24v on board starting system on their high compression drag bikes. Anyone know about this? I want to do away with my remote starter.

Does your bike still have the charging system installed?  Stator, rotor, regulator, rectifier, etc?  If so, do you need both batteries to charge from the engine? 

Or is all of that stuff gone and you just want to mount 2 batteries and wire them into the starter motor?

TerryK -  I don't know of a 24v starter setup for the KZ's, but here's a few random thoughts:

1)  I *thought* that I remember reading, back in the day, that the J/GPz motors used an upgraded starter as compared to the early KZ's.  Maybe some other forum member could confirm this.  If so, that would be a good starting point.

2)  I see that you're running a 7" slick, and I'm assuming wheelie bars, on your bike.  If this is the case, be very careful if you end up running an alternator rotor w/the starter clutch setup.  When you dump the clutch on the line, the crank slows down but the the alternator rotor has momentum and wants to keep spinning at 9000 rpms, or whatever your launch rpm is set at.  Bottom line - if it's an early crank, the Woodruff key that locates the rotor will take a beating.  If it's a later MkII crank with the larger snout, then you're relying on the taper fit to keep the rotor in place.  If the rotor loosens ever so slightly, it will start to friction weld itself to the crank snout (ask me how I know!).  Just something to think about.

Best of luck with your quest.  I will agree that hauling a starter cart around can be a real PITA at times.  Seems like every time you need it in the pits, it's up at the starting line, or vice versa. It does keep the bike simple, however.  There is no free lunch!

Mike

There was a member on here that had that setup on his Supergas bike, his user name was "Jack" from London, Ontario - You could search on here to see if he still has pictures posted. He was using a Cashio Super Starter (reworked CB900 0.8kw) He ran two 12V batteries, one larger than the other, used both when starting then cut to one for running just the coils total loss. You need to up the battery cable size, especially the ground strap. I think he was using super big Ford truck solenoid, not sure. I think the batteries were 7AH and 10AH.

Call Mike Law at Race Works, he will walk you thru it.

Yes, many years ago. Jack from Ontario. Built that beautiful Z1R blue dragbike hollowed out the starter clutch. Used the small lithium batteries when they 1st came out. He used to come down to western New York from London. Ont. he dealt with Paul Gast & my friend Jim Mangus from "Jims Cylinder Heads" Jim ran a Top Fuel Nitro bike.
I seen him at Cayuga drag strip near Toronto. I ran there a few times.
I needed 4 teflon wrist pin buttons 1 time, I forgot the bore? And I see Jack offered them to me for free, Then he sent some some manuals and other parts to several guys on this site for free? What a nice gesture at his end!
Then! Come to find out the poor Guy had Cancer! He died within a few weeks. FK cancer I hate it!
But that was my story with Jack. Too long ago for his posts, But Man! Did he build an excellent motorcycle! High Class all the way.
Marty in Buffalo

Mike from Raceworks helped Jack build that drag bike. I use to see Jack at Mikes old shop, ran into him quite a few times there.
Jacks home track was Grand Bend Motorplex, but I prefer to run at St Thomas Dragway.
Mike is also friends with Paul Gast, they collaborated quite a bit back in the day but not so much since Covid.

Thanks for the help. Ill be calling Mike tomorrow.

wrote:

TerryK -  I don't know of a 24v starter setup for the KZ's, but here's a few random thoughts:

1)  I *thought* that I remember reading, back in the day, that the J/GPz motors used an upgraded starter as compared to the early KZ's.  Maybe some other forum member could confirm this.  If so, that would be a good starting point.

2)  I see that you're running a 7" slick, and I'm assuming wheelie bars, on your bike.  If this is the case, be very careful if you end up running an alternator rotor w/the starter clutch setup.  When you dump the clutch on the line, the crank slows down but the the alternator rotor has momentum and wants to keep spinning at 9000 rpms, or whatever your launch rpm is set at.  Bottom line - if it's an early crank, the Woodruff key that locates the rotor will take a beating.  If it's a later MkII crank with the larger snout, then you're relying on the taper fit to keep the rotor in place.  If the rotor loosens ever so slightly, it will start to friction weld itself to the crank snout (ask me how I know!).  Just something to think about.

Best of luck with your quest.  I will agree that hauling a starter cart around can be a real PITA at times.  Seems like every time you need it in the pits, it's up at the starting line, or vice versa. It does keep the bike simple, however.  There is no free lunch!

Mike

Good points to consider. I wondered about the weight of the rotor in a slick/wheelie bar setup. Definitely a concern. Thanks for the idea.