Ron Ayers says six steel and seven friction plates, but I would confirm with the factory service manual.

www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/5fff5ad0...lutch-81-83-h2-h3-h4

Service manual

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/KZ750E1&H1.pdf

I have a PDF. PM me if interested.

Hello everyone, my name is Peyton and I just bought a 1976 KZ750B for $350.00 as a winter project. I have grown up around motorcycles and have a 2023 KLR 650 and have had a 2007 KLR 650, and various other cruisers, sport bikes, and the like. I have never had a vintage bike and I feel like I have taken on quite a bit. Here is the picture that I received from the seller, a picture with the motorcycle on the trailer, and now disassembled in my garage:

 

 

 

It has no spark, and the gas tank is in unfortunate condition (very rusty though I think with a good cleaning it will be okay, the petcock is shot). I believe the carb is going to be very gunked up (it has been sitting for years). It has a front light but it is off and most likely broken. The speedometer and tachometer are also off the bike. I also know it will need a new front and rear master cylinder but the rotors are good and the calipers can be restored. I was wondering if these parts should get the bike up and running: (I also have an auxiliary gas tank I will be using until I have this running well)







* Also admins, if this is in the wrong forum section, please let me know! 

I am excited to begin tackling this but I don't really know where to start. The service manual I have a PDF of is confusing and I haven't dived very deep into it yet. 
 

I agree that current on line parts lists tend to show the latest part number, but I have some old parts lists that indicate the same (older part numbers) were use on the B1, B2 and B3. 
The F1 list I have shows the same parts for it (1980) This list for the F2, F3 and F4 indicate that at some point in 1981 the change to the newer part happened.

jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/Z650/Files/KZ650B1toB3.pdf

jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/Z650/Files/KZ650F1_Parts_List.pdf

z650.surr.fr/parts.html

I can also say there was a change in the push rod diam in what appears to be late 79 early 80 see below
B1 13116-035  7 x 270
 KZ650-B1 (1977)  
 KZ650-B2 (1978)  
 KZ650-B2A (1978)  
 KZ650-B3 (1979)  
 KZ650-C1 (Custom) (1977)  
 KZ650-C2 (Custom) (1978)  
 KZ650-C3 (Custom) (1979)  
 KZ650-D1 (SR) (1978)  
 KZ650-D1A (SR) (1978)  
 KZ650-D2 (SR) (1979)  
 KZ650-F1 (1980)  
 KZ750-B1 (1976)  
 KZ750-B2 (1977)  
 KZ750-B3 (1978)  
 KZ750-B4 (1979)  
 KZ750-G1 (LTD II) (1980)  

E1 13116-1007 8 x 270
 KZ1000-E1 (Shaft) (1979)  
 KZ1000-E2 (Shaft) (1980)  
 KZ1100-A1 (Shaft) (1981)  
 KZ1100-A2 (Shaft) (1982)  
 KZ1100-A3 (Shaft) (1983)  
 KZ1100-D1 (Spectre) (1982)  
 KZ1100-D2 (Spectre) (1983)  
 KZ1100-L1 (LTD Shaft) (1983)  
 KZ550-A1 (1980)  
 KZ550-A2 (1981)  
 KZ550-A3 (1982)  
 KZ550-A4 (1983)  
 KZ550-C1 (LTD) (1980)  
 KZ550-C2 (LTD) (1981)  
 KZ550-C3 (LTD) (1982)  
 KZ550-C4 (LTD) (1983)  
 KZ550-D1 (GPz) (1981)  
 KZ550-H1 (GPz) (1982)  
 KZ550-H2 (GPz) (1983)  
 KZ650-E1 (LTD) (1980)  
 KZ650-H1 (CSR) (1981)  
 KZ650-H2 (CSR) (1982)  
 KZ650-H3 (CSR) (1983)  
 KZ700-A1 (1984)  
 KZ750-E1 (1980)  
 KZ750-E2 (1981)  
 KZ750-E3 (1982)  
 KZ750-F1 (LTD Shaft) (1983)  
 KZ750-H1 (LTD) (1980)  
 KZ750-H2 (LTD) (1981)  
 KZ750-H3 (LTD) (1982)  
 KZ750-H4 (LTD) (1983)  
 KZ750-L3 (1983)  
 KZ750-M1 (CSR Twin) (1982)  
 KZ750-N1 (Spectre) (1982)  
 KZ750-N2 (Spectre) (1983)  
 KZ750-R1 (GPz) (1982)  
 ZN1100-B1 (LTD Shaft) (1984)  
 ZN1100-B2 (LTD Shaft) (1985)  
 ZN700-A1 (LTD Shaft) (1984)  
 ZN700-A2 (LTD Shaft) (1985)  




 

Everything (almost) you ever wanted to know about the KZ750E1.

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/KZ750E1&H1.pdf

What kind of oil? Yikes.

People will recommend everything from WD40 to granny’s leftover bacon grease.
 
I will start the war by recommending a 15 or 20 weight dedicated fork oil from a major manufacturer. Bel Ray, Motul, Redline, et cetera. You can even buy Kawasaki branded oil if you like. The multi-weight fork oil used by the factory is no longer produced.

Resistor plugs are not a problem unless you also have resistor boots or wires. If just one of them is resistor, you will be ok.
Dirt or rust in the fuel tank could cause the problems you describe. Pulling off one of the float bowls will tell you for sure.
The factory service manual will be an invaluable tool. www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...l%20KZ750%20Twin.pdf

The carbs cannot be properly cleaned in situ. The pilot circuit, which dominates the mixture at small throttle openings, consists of some very tiny passageways that are very easily clogged with dried fuel, fine dirt or rust. The only way to be sure they are clear is to completely disassemble the carbs and carefully clean everything. Here are no shortcuts to carb cleaning.

He most frequent cause of shifting problems is a broken return spring or pawl spring. However, if the drum has a lot of play, there may be a deeper problem.

Pages 180-184 in the fsm for the E1 covers the shift mechanism.

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/KZ750E1&H1.pdf

The fsm says 22cmHg, with not more than 2cmHg difference between all four.

This info is at the bottom of page 16. In the pdf version linked below, the bottoms of the pages are cut off, but this information is just visible.

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/KZ750E1&H1.pdf


Some manuals say only that there should not be more than 2cmHg difference between any two cylinders, though the manual for the 400, 500, 550 four cylinder models says that no cylinder should read less than 14.

Every time the oil is changed.
Be sure to use motorcycle-specific oil that is designed for wet clutches. Unlike cars and trucks, Japanese motorcycle engines have a common sump, meaning that the engine, transmission and the clutch share the same oil. Automotive oils include friction reducers that can damage the clutch plates. Look for the JASO-MA certification on the bottle to be sure. Some Diesel engine oils like Shell Rotella also carry the JASO-MA certification. Also buy a high quality filter. Genuine Kawasaki filters and NAPA Gold filters are good choices.

In case you do not have a hard copy, here is a digitized factory service manual.

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...l%20KZ750%20Twin.pdf

Based on the info you provide and Wookie58’s assessment, I’d say there is a chance that somebody installed the starter clutch backwards, though I am not sure that is possible. However, that would explain the situation. With the clutch reversed, it would disengage when the starter motor is activated, then it would engage when the engine is running, causing damage the starter motor.

The factory service manual will be a huge help in what is to come.

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...l%20KZ750%20Twin.pdf