TOPIC:

The rapid wear that occurs is the result of the chain pitch not matching the sprocket tooth pitch. Even if the pitches differ by a small amount they will not mate properly and the item with the smaller pitch will wear pretty quickly until the two pitches are equal. Obviously, it's your decision, but I would recommend that at the very least you hold the new chain into the teeth of each sprocket (the front generally wears quicker than the rear because it has fewer teeth) to see if there is any play pitch-wise. Ed

Ed, I will certainly do that and if there is any question will replace both sprockets.

If the existing sprockets aren't worn, but the chain's o'rings have deteriorated, seems reasonable to replace the chain, and use the existing sprockets.
But 10,400 miles may be reason enough to replace at least the rear sprocket.
Perhaps the rear sprocket pictured doesn't actually have 10,400 miles on it.
The front sprocket is often more durable than the rear, but it's relatively inexpensive.

Some factory drive chains were endless design (without a link), whereby installation entailed removal of the swing-arm.
Am thinking this idea began with the Z1.
The factory endless chains did not have o'rings, at least on the Z1.
Am uncertain whether endless 630 chains evolved to o'ring styles.

Meanwhile, the aftermarket link designs became popular due to easier installation (and often less cost) and have been reliable where the master link (and clip, where applicable) are correctly installed.

Good Fortune!

The "pull-away" test for determining chain/sprocket wear.



Good Fortune!

The original stock KZ650 chains were endless and also had o-rings. The chains were made by EK. Ed

I noticed chain lube (blue label for O-rings) as the standard, has anyone used Maxima Chain Wax ? Wondering if wax is better than traditional chain lube? The reviews seem to be favorable and indicate a cleaner, smoother chain that attracts less dirt, with no fly off.

Yes! I've been using Maxima Chain Wax for more than 10 years and it works great! Nearly no chain wear and it doesn't fling much; just a little under the chain guard. I spray it on and wipe off the excess with a paper towel as I turn the wheel. This keeps the chain very clean looking while providing good lubrication. I lube it about every 300 miles (unless I forget ). Ed

About to install the new chain with a split link connector. I know the open end of the split link must face back in the rotation of the chain. I haven't found info on which side of the chain to place the link. The inside would be clean looking however not as easy to maintain or visually inspect. I've seen many bikes with the split link connector facing out. It doesn't seem to make a difference, any thoughts?

found this image on www.dansmc.com

Makes no difference, unless you want the cleaner look and don't mind fighting the master link clip. I've used a couple of master links on a chain on my race bike oriented as above, and never had any trouble at all. Paul

Placed the new chain ( JT X-link 530/102 for my '79 650B3 from Z1 ) on the bike last night. Overall it was an easy job from start to finish. I took my time attaching the split link connector and made sure it was on correct since it's the most important piece. I used a small c-clamp to compress the back end of the link while I inserted the clip with the help of needle nose pliers. Once in position I verified both sides were seated in the link pin grooves and that the open end actually closed around the pin. The new tires (Shinko 712's, 100/90-19, 120/90-18) were mounted this week with new tubes and liners and look proportionate with the bike.

LineArtist wrote: ...took my time attaching the split link connector and make sure it was on correct since it's the most important piece. I used a small c-clamp to compress the back end of the link while I inserted the clip with the help of needle nose pliers. Once in position I verified both sides were seated in the link pin grooves and that the open end actually closed around the pin....

Nicely done!

Good Fortune!