TOPIC:

Thak you to all for helping and the wiringdiagram is great.  .When i took a ride this evening i checked the brakelight switch.It was just the spring for the switch that was too long.I should have checked that before askig about the rear brakelight on the forum silly me =). I made the spring shorter with  a plier i had with me .That was a little stupid because it did not look too nice. I think the spring was so long that even if i had tried to adjust nut on the switch to max it may not have been enough
to pull on the switch.I see now that i also could have taken off the other end where the spring is fitted  and bend a little on that wire..
There is still a little problem with the brakelight it now only works sometime when using the handlebar lever and when using the rearbrakefootpedal the light in instrument stays on ,but if i
kick the pedal a little the dashlight goes off. Is the dashlight suposed to come on whem brakes are in use?

I took another pick under left sidecover .I think you guys are right about there is fitted a new rectifier under the batterybox i can see it now in another pick i have.
The white conector that is not in use has brown marks so it has been hot there as it use to bee on the rectifier conectors on many bikes .On my yamaha  fj 1200 the rectifior conector melted and i remowed the plug and put in big spade end conectors instead that has worked with no more heat .

I did not have time to check the neutral switch, but i can see the green/red wire on one of the connectors.I dont know how to test with multimeter on that but i just did a quick test with the ignition on and put one probe to the green/red wire and the other to ground on engine there was volt present  both when gear in neutral and when i put it in gear .I dont know if that is a sign the switch has bad connection or has a fault.

 

The oil pressure switch completes the ground as well as the neutral switch. Those should be plugged in. 
Steve

SWest wrote:

The oil pressure switch completes the ground as well as the neutral switch. Those should be plugged in. 
Steve


Okay i had a look at the wirediagram now and see that Hmm   if the oilpressure switch is not working that is more serius i have to check this. Im not sure how the oilpresure switch works on these old kawas ,but on my yamaha 1986 it is not really a oilpressure switch it just indicates if oil gets to low in the sump . But i have to check this .The oilbulb works in the instrumentpanel when turning the key.
 

Does it go out when you start it?

Yes i have run the bike many hours already and it runs god with no bad noises .I also did an oil and filter change .And when started it i could see the oil filter was filled in the sightglass so
the pump is working. The drainplug was extremly hard to losen i had to use a longarmed wrench and i was worried that something could crack ,but at last it came lose with a bang .
The po must have used too much force when thigtening the plugs. strange the treads was fine.I used 25 NM on draiplug and 21 NM on the filerbolt that should be enough.
In the manual for the FJ  it says 43 NM but that is wrong and i heard of many stripping the treads trying to use 43NM

I think 75-76 are the same, this diagram I found on this forum is titled  75-76 KZ900, it is slightly different than 73-74.
It matches my harness although it looks like my 75 has the connector block on the other side of the battery box than his 76.


 



I'm not sure if these pics posted, the preview only shows links

Kurt

The oil pressure sensor is behind the engine block, just to the right of the cam chain tensioner.  A wire is attached to the top of it and runs into the alternator harness, along with the neutral switch wire.  They connect to the main buss via the blue plug shown in the photo...the one on the right.  Beside the blue plug is the lime green one that would normally be for the voltage regulator.  This has been disconnected and replaced, along with the white rectifier plug by a rectifier/regulator that shows in the photo as a pale green plug.  The brown one on the left is the main wiring harness.  

The oil pressure light should come on when the key is turned on.  It should go off when the engine starts running.  If it doesn't come on when the ignition is turned on then it may be disconnected on the top of the oil pressure switch/bypass.  Or the wire may be broken.  You can check the wire with a continuity tester at the lime green plug and at the oil pressure sensor end.