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So,, 12v input to the coil.should be about the same on the wire feeding the points.Am I reading that right?Switches on and not running,points closed.I checked that before but I'll check again.Thanks for your time folks.

Correct to a point.
The wire from the coil to the points is the other end of the primary winding.
So if the points are open, and your meter is very high impedance, then there will be very little current flow through the meter to ground or coil windings and the voltage measured will be close to your supplied voltage.
When the points close, the coil's rather low DC resistance will swamp the meter's very high DC resistance and you'll see a measurable voltage drop.
If it's not much drop at all there's a small chance the coil, the connections or actual wire is going bad.
Because under a very very light load and no current, there is very little voltage drop.
A bad wire, bad connection or primary wire might have high resistance and limit that current.
But if it is a large drop, the primary winding might be shorted across it's turns.
These are very basic trouble shooting guides as a coil gets really flaky when going bad vs its temperature!!

A weak battery can still measure 12 volts output.

Is it for certain that the battery is a good and fully charged battery?

Has the battery passed a load test?

If not already done, would assure integrity of the connection where the negative battery cable attaches to the engine.

Good Fortune!

Allright,Thats great information.The grandkids are gone back to Nashville so I started going through the process and my VOM gave it up .Tried several sets of batteries and still goin crazy.Guess I'll back off till I get another tester.I'm gonna get the battery tested tomorrow.It's just a couple of months old.We'll just have to see.Today no spark.The plugs are new too.Thanks again and I'll for sure get back and post what's goin on.OLJO

Update.Got my meter goin,started checking things and I remembered seeing a youtube video on how to check a condenser and the way the guy did it was Ohm the condenser first and as he explained this charges it.Then read the volts and watch for it to discharge.Before I tried this ,no spark.I ohm'd it for a few seconds and it fired right up.I still got the same issues with tuning but I can get spark that way.I had my battery load tested and was good.I tested where the connecter from the switch goes to the primary coil lead and i'm losing about 1 volt. I also checked the battery while running and it seems to be charging about 13v .Any thoughts on these findings? Can anyone tell me if I have the correct plugs and the correct gap for the plugs and points.I found it once on the forum and lost it and I haven't a manuel yet.The plugs are NGK BP6ES. 1980 750 G TWIN

Another update.I installed the new points and condenser and still have the same symtoms. Cranks good,Idles rough,After it warms up I can ride it easy,Still running rich according to plugs,Cant excellerate much without missing.Got a new coil ordered now.We'll see.Oljo

Update, Got the new coil,no difference.back to the carbs on another post in carburaters under BS question.

New update.Turns out the main gremlin wasn't the firing.My carbs have the type of needles in the slides with small springs.Someone got one of the springs in backwards causing it to run real lean,Details are in another post in Carburaters under BS38 question.Thanks for all of the input.Still got lots to do now I know it's got potential.Hope this helps someone else.OLJO