TOPIC:

Just got thru rebuilding my Starter/Clutch Assembly off my 77' KZ1000A. Starts fine, but would also like to inspect my Starter too. I noticed when using the start button, it appeared when the starter was turning over the motor it would intermittently act like it lost current just for a brief moment while maintaining depression of the stater button until the bike fired up?

Do you think it might be something in the starter switch or starter motor itself?

This is a 77' KZ1000A and it looks like the starter rebuild kits out there are for 82' KZ1000's and up? It looks like maybe the part #'s of both year starters are the same?

I don't have a problem on approaching a rebuild of the starter and always welcome the challenge of doing it. Certainly a lot easier than rebuilding the starter/clutch.

Is it very difficult to open up the starter?

The starter motor itself might need repair. Maybe something came loose. Opening the starter motor up is the easy part, putting it back together is where it could get tricky. Be warned that the starter motor repair kits you find online might not actually be compatible. I'm going through this issue now. Had to grind off the sides to make it fit and fashion a tab to mimic the original. Almost everything in the kit was slightly different.

Mine was 40 years old. The bushings were bad. I took some extras apart and switched parts. I like extras.
Steve

I don't have any spare electric starter motors so was hoping someone used a rebuild kit that worked exactly as stock? So if I order a kit, it may take some modifications to work? Maybe Z! Eat. can shed some light. Wish I had another spare without spending a lot to find another one then finding that it may be defective too?

Is there another area in the circuit to look at when the electric start button is depressed to start the bike ?

If we could hear the starter, we could better advise you.
Steve

Here's a good breakdown on starter disassembly.


Below is the kit I am dealing with that is close but not exact. Needed some filing down to fit in, also needed to cut out a "pin" that grips into the end cap. There was also misc. parts that I have no idea where they go (possibly for another motors application).

Here is two diagrams I found on my starter.


The problem I'm having is when I put the end cap on (parts 11-1 on the first diagram) it won't spin. When the cap is off it (the armature) spins fairly easy. When parts 11-1 are on their own it spins nice and smooth. I don't hear any radial or axial play as mentioned in the video. Does this have something to do with the small pin (mentioned about 13:11 in the video) or the fact that the rubber grommet in that location doesn't have a small notch in it?

Hopefully some of this helps you. I'm hoping I can get some answers too.

Z1 - KZ900 - KZ1000 are all the same. Except the later yrs. had a connection for the large power wire, where Z1's were wired right inside.
They are a dime a dozen on ebay! I gave up trying to sell them over the years.
If anyone would buy one, ask seller if there is any radial play for the gear shaft. So if you received you could ask for a refund. Of course deal with a seller that offers returns. I gave 5 away when I moved out of the city 3 years ago. along with taking 300 pounds of aluminum cases, covers, fork sliders and etc. to the scrap yard. Regretting it now.

Plus there is that Honda 900 or 1100 starter thing that I don't know the facts or which is the right one that can replace, bolt in.
It has more torque. Maybe someone will chime in. Then I can book mark it and start looking for that Honda one myself.

I actually just scored an 11,000 mile KZ 1000 Mark II starter i am going to use. I have 2 others left that are usable.

From an old post

For a stronger starter motor, read this:

Using a Honda Mitsuba SM-220 Starter in the KZ (copied from the KZ rider website)

The CB F's used 2 different starters. Look for the one marked .8kw. They also have one that is .7kw. This owner noticed a difference when he installed his. He read that you can remove the outer housing, and rotate it. This will re-align the outer power terminal, to a better location. if you don’t do this, you will need to grind some metal from the chain cover to gain clearance. Also install a heavier gauge wire to the starter, I’d recommend 6 AWG(American Wire Gauge) welding cable with the correct terminal ends to match the treaded studs for the solenoid and starter motor. Don’t forget the cable from the battery to the solenoid.

The stock KZ starter is .6kw in size

www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220)

Like I said in my Original Post. that when starting the bike with the electric starter, it acts like it momentarily looses current when turning over bike. The bike starts, but you would think while engaging the start button, the starter would constantly keep turning over until the bike starts.

The Battery is New and Charged and of course I already changed out the starter/clutch assembly.

Now you mention using a Honda Starter. Sounds great and wouldn't mine looking for one especially if I'm entertaining buying another used starter or rebuild kit

Anyone else used this set-up?

Before spending money on anything you could try bridging the posts on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver or insulated pliers thereby sending battery voltage directly to the starter motor.
If it spins the way it should with no hesitation then you may have a poor contact in the starter button or the solenoid or somewhere in between.
If you experience the same hesitation then probsbly the starter motor needs service or replacement.

That's a Great Idea JR and I appreciate the input ! I'll do that tomorrow and will repot back.

JR, With the Key On, Bike in Neutral, and clutch lever Not pulled in - I bridged the posts of the starter solenoid as you suggested and the stater spins the way it should with no hesitation. Starter solenoid terminal are clean. Would that rule out the solenoid ?

What do you suggest now ?