TOPIC:

First post here, hoping you all may have some ideas on what the issue is.

Symptoms:
- Basically, the bike won't start if the battery isn't 80%+ charged or hooked up with jumper cables to a running car. (Battery is NEW)
- Kick starting just tires me out and is ineffective. I'm 225lbs trying not to snap the peddle, so I'm not just under powering the effort.
- Still struggles to fire up after being ridden for an hour in warm weather, while only left alone for a few minutes.
- If it sits for 30+ minutes, forget it, unless the battery is juiced up or it's hooked up to jumper cables. Popping the clutch at a fast roll won't do the job either, which I hate doing, but if you're stranded and a few people offer to push.....you gotta do, what you gotta do.
- Stalls out if I let it idle anywhere below 2k rpms.
- Breather tube is a bit smokey.
- Running tail light is burning bulbs after a few hours.

All signs point to electrical issues, but I'm curious where to start replacing components? Battery does seem to yield a charge after being ridden, but I'm under the impression it takes a lot of riding time to make-up for the juice consumed by the initial start up. The bike seems to need a very strong current or spark to fire-up or accept being kicked over via the kick starter. The spark plugs probably have less than 300 miles on them, but did sit for 2-3yrs since replaced initially. The carbs were adjusted and cleaned within the last month by a professional motorcycle shop. The carbs also have brand new pod filters. Oil was changed while the carbs were cleaned.

My thoughts are one or more of the following needs to be replaced:
- Regulator.....maybe it's gone bad and throwing out a wacky voltage amount, hence the running light constantly burning out (brake light works perfect)
- Ignition Coil.....possibly just crapped out because it's 36yrs old.
- Spark plugs........maybe just are pieces of crap from day one, or sat for too long.

Any ideas are appreciated and welcome. I'm sure there's no magical solution, as there never are when it comes to electrical issues, but I'm hoping one of your hypotheses may help shed light on a culprit I'm overlooking.

What filters are you using?


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Using a running car to jump a bike will fry all kinds of electronics. Sorry to say the regulator and coils are toast. If you're lucky that's it besides a few burned out bulbs.
Steve

Have you tried unplugging the charging system to see if it will run off the battery?
Steve

I'll try that and see if it changes anything. I've scoured the internet as well as forums and have read posts by people having similar issues. In most cases, the common denominator ends up being electrical issues, but I'm now entertaining ideas like: The carbs weren't cleaned and/or calibrated correctly, the stator clutch gear(flywheel) is not turning over the engine, bad compression, etc...'

I'd like to "band-aid" the situation to the point of not worrying about being stranded again and avoid doing an overhaul until winter. By overhaul I mean; new wiring harness and replacing multiple components.

I've had this bike for a long time and finally got it to the point that I could pass a safety inspection and ride it legally, so I'm not keen on tearing it down right away, even though it's necessary. The previous owner had removed all the safety equipment, which includes the front brake, turn signals, and warning lights, which took a while to add back..

Jumping the bike from a running vehicle or battery charger will fry the bike's electronics, so you should under no circumstances do that. If your battery isn't fully charged - charge the battery. Trying to start the bike from a weak battery is a waste of time. When you do charge the battery make sure the charger is putting out NO MORE than 2 amps or you will shorten the life of the battery. Ed

Got a multimeter and tested the regulator/rectifier, It's fine. So are the other readings I performed on the bike while running.

I ordered new carb holders since there appears to be some dryness/cracking around their base and I'm suspecting a vacuum leak may contribute to the rough idle and stalling when it's running.

New spark plugs are on their way. If the spark is still as weak as before, then I'll order an ignition coil.

If none of this helps, or solves my issue, I'll just have to bite the bullet and do a new wiring harness. This dude sparck moto charges like $200 for a custom harness, which would be nice to be able to delete some of the crap I don't use without worrying about it messing anything else up.

I'd like to have a new wiring loom too but it's not in my budget. I replaced bad wires and it works well. You can too.
Steve

I pulled the ignition coil, Primary was 5.3ohms which is fine. Then tested the Secondary with the plug caps on and got no reading. Removed the caps and ended up getting a reading which was on par with the manufacturer's limitations, so then I tested each cap. Cap #1 = 4.5 ohms. Cap #2 = No reading. Then pulled the old plugs and (see picture) they look fouled, either carbon fouled or oil fouled.

I'm still nervous the ignition coil or it's leads may be failing when the bike gets hot since I'm having issues getting the bike started after long rides unless it sits for a while or gets a really strong current pushed through it via jump starting. I saw somebody recommend putting the ignition coil in the oven at 200 degrees and then testing it to be sure heat isn't a factor, but I'm not really keen on baking the coil and may as well get an updated coil to go with the new caps I ordered and plugs.

Since the carbs were cleaned and adjusted less than 100 miles ago, I'm hoping their old calibration was at fault for the plugs being fouled. What other factors may be responsible for fouling them?

That plug looks old. You need caps.
Steve