TOPIC:

Clean all the connections, etc. in the starter and ignition circuits. The stuff shown below is THE thing to use. Radio Shack and others sell it. Ed

Ok, thanks guys!

Good Fortune!

Great! Thank you!!

Not sure i I missed it. Did the bike run before you rebuilt the carbs. I only ask because I was working on my bike and accidentally timed it 180 out and also put new carbs on. I thought it was the carbs, put a different sent on same thing. Could get it to idle barely and would fall on its face with throttle. I am not saying you did this but perhaps the PO did? I would also make sure your mechanical advance is moving free and properly lubed.

It was running more poorly than it is now before the carb work, but it's really acting strange. I'll check timing for sure!

If not already done, would also inspect and assure integrity of the connection where the battery negative cable attaches to the rear of the engine (or wherever it attaches).

Good Fortune!

The relay adds complexity without solving the real problem. Check the fuse holders and connections. Don't add any dielectric grease.

To find where the voltage is lost, put the black lead of the meter on the battery's negative post, and probe with the red lead.

With the bike idling, start at the battery. Then probe the fuses. Then try to probe the ignition switch with a skinny attachement, like a paperclip, but don't let it short out. Then probe the connections for the kill switch.

Thanks, I'll do all that!

Ok so I did some cleaning on a few connectors, and some voltage readings, found that after the ignition switch voltage drops from 12.49v-10.49v, then after the handlebar controls it drops to the 9.??volts. Are my switches bad?

Dirty.
Steve

Can you clean the ignition switch? I have cleaned the connectors that lead to the switches, but do I need to get inside and clean? Also is there a way to clean the inside of the ignition switch?