TOPIC:

Hi:

I have my 1981 GPz1100 apart for some maintenance. I took the stator cover off to remove the starter. Could someone with a more trained eye than mine, tell me if the blackened wires at about one 'o clock in the pic below, are normal? When the bike was running, it was charging fine.




I also find the connections for the stator to be looking a little old too. I'm thinking, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but I was wondering what others think.



Lastly, can someone tell me what the torque is for the starter's mounting bolts? My manual lists the screws, but no torque for them is shown in the torque table.

Bike has around 20,000 miles on it, and is in pretty good condition.

Thanks for your assistance.

Can't you post the pic in your thread? The stator looks normal, the connections could be cleaned I guess. You tighten the bolts like any #6 bolt.
Steve

Steve:

It's been a little while since I posted here. I thought that I had the picturing posting correct with the IMG link, but that didn't work. Had to find Patton's instructions to get it right.

I did put locktite on the screws, before I tightened them to around 80 in-lbs. The locktite was the removable type for their thread size.

Did you click insert? I don't use locktight on 6m screws and bolts.Welcome back.
Steve

It's working now.
Steve

Bit the bullet, and replaced the stator. Why take chances with a 35 year old electrical part, that is embedded within the engine?

GPZ1100_Rider wrote: Bit the bullet, and replaced the stator. Why take chances with a 35 year old electrical part, that is embedded within the engine?

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You are a wise man...you can't go wrong with this decision.

The stator got crispy because there is too much shunted current being returned by the R/R. Replacing the R/R with a Shindengen SH775 will resolve that issue and protect the stator into the future. These R/R's are SERIES type, not shunt type, and as such they protect the stator. Polaras sells these units for about $75, and Triumph sells a little jumper harness kit for cheap. This is the answer to properly updating the charging system going into the future.

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, I can go with a better R/R, but for the time being, I will ascertain that the current R/R is doing what it's supposed to, and revisit the upgrade at a later date, when there's funds for it. I have MBS.

The OEM stator was okay, before I took the cover and it off the bike and found the blackened wires on it. It took 35 years to get to this point, so I think I'm good for a little time before the R/R upgrade.

Before going through the process Nessism is suggesting, I put in an aftermarket stator thinking it would solve my electrical problem too.
A couple days later found one leg had shorted in the stator itself. When comparing the wire gauge of that pretty-looking, exceptionally packaged Chinese junk stator to that of OEM, I was quick to understand.

But since installing the setup Ed suggests, all is bliss...

daveo wrote: When comparing the wire gauge of that pretty-looking, exceptionally packaged Chinese junk stator to that of OEM, I was quick to understand.

Sorry to hear that you got a bad part. Guano happens.

I have also noted that the appearance of the new stator differs from the OEM one. According ElectroSport, their stator is different from the OEM one. Perhaps their description of the construction of theirs, offers some onsight into why there are differences between theirs, and the OEM one...

Description:

ESG033 is a high quality stator that replaces the OEM stator in the Kawasaki KZ1000 and KZ1100 models

Our ESG033 is built on a modern stator core and the copper windings are installed using computer controlled winding machines to ensure consistent quality. The copper wire itself is of the highest grade and we modified the winding configuration compared to the OEM stator to increase output by about 15% .

At the same time this new stator configuration lowers the amount of heat generated inside the winding which drastically improves reliability.

GPZ1100_Rider wrote:
Our ESG033 is built on a modern stator core and the copper windings are installed using computer controlled winding machines to ensure consistent quality. The copper wire itself is of the highest grade and we modified the winding configuration compared to the OEM stator to increase output by about 15% .

At the same time this new stator configuration lowers the amount of heat generated inside the winding which drastically improves reliability.

The last thing you want is "increased output". All the extra current the system makes that is not consumed by the bike is then returned to the stator, This extra current creates HEAT which then cooks the stator. Of course this can be mitigated by a SERIES R/R, but most people don't know the difference between a series unit and a shunt unit.