TOPIC:

Good evening all,

i am curious if there a way to repair the switches on bike (on both sides)? This bike is a barn find and has been sitting for 5 years. When I first put a new battery in it, it use to crank until the battery ran out of juice (right hand side) and the signals use to work ( left hand side). Read somewhere that there was connection issue took it apart to clean the connections and now neither side functions. The switches move but nothing works with the acception of the low beam and high beam. Is there away to repair this? Or will did I screw myself and need to find new switches?

I don't have a book yet, lots of stuff is available online free... Here's the bike info

1981 KZ 750 LTD (4 cylinders)

Get the hard copymanual/ books. You won't have to get your hands super clean to use the keyboard every 10 minutes or adjust the screen to get rid of the glare. No battery to die at the most important time. You can make notes on pages. Books are as important as a 10mm wrench.
As for your switches, are you sure you got the contacts clean and reassembled right? No parts left over? Wires still soldered to their contcts? Take one switch apart at a time and go through it again . Sometimes it take a few attemps to get it right and working again. Take your time. It's not a race.

there were no parts left over, that i can guarantee. i did take the once black goo-ed up surfaces and make them copper looking color ( for the one that had it anyway) as far as i an tell the connections were left in the state they were in when i open them up, not gonna lie I'm a little hesitant to open them up again in fear of busting them up some more. is there a site you would suggest for a manual purchase, the local car store in the small town I'm in wants $43 plus $7 special order for it....im sure thats a little elevated...

ill have to open it back up where theres' a little moe sunshine out, thank you, ill keep this updated.

Cool that there were no parts left over. The copper contacts are bright and the spring backed ones were installed loose so they can make contact with the other stationary contacts as they are moved over them. Are the wired still in molded plastic connectors? Ohm out the contacts to make sure contacts are doing their jobs when activated/deactivated? Plugged into the right curcuit?
Yes, adequate light is essential. As for manuals, ebay,amason, swapmeets,used book stores. librarys might have your manual in the referance section and you can copy the section on a copier.

I doubt both switches went belly up at the same time. Maybe you have a power feed issue back at the battery? I'd look there first anyway.

It's fairly easy to take the switches apart and clean the insides. Some dielectric grease on any sliding contacts is advised on reassembly. I did this on my 750/4 switches and found one broken solder joint which was subsequently repaired.

Sitting in front of my grandma wood burning stove reading this on my new POS HP lap top. Kinda chilly this morning. I went through my 40 year old switches two years ago. Cleaned them then used some contact cleaner and lube spray I got at Radio Shack. They worked great until the high/low switch broke off. I bought a new one from z1partsinc. The kill switch plate where the contacts are was broken in two places. A little crazy glue and JB weld got it working again. Still is after two years. The springs can be stuck so they won't allow contact. I still have the original switches and if I come across some used ones that are complete, I'll switch parts and have my OEM ones back. Not really happy with the after market one.
Steve

can you go in detail about what you mean back at the battery? do you mean poor connection? poor power source? its a new battery and i cleaned the connectors when installing the new battery, which is why i it was able to crank until i too the damn things apart.


i will be disconnecting the switches from the bike today to bring them inside to work on, 12 degrees is a bit to chilly for me to work on in the garage, and the parts are small anyhow. ill keep this updated as i go along.

here is a complete manual, you can always save it to a jump drive and go to kinkos and print it off. I found that it had all the complete pages and better pictures than the bike night one. I use it on my ipad because i can just wash it off real easy. to each his own i guess.

www.750turbo.com/manuals/

thank you for the link to the manual! i have a "junk" computer from college i use for outside and it how i got into fixing things so far via internet without the book. iPad much more functional, easier to wipe down, might have to consider stitching over

You can also get a keyboard cover fairly cheap, that comes in handy when in the garage, with the computer,

www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=...53478169%26veh%3Dsem
Pete

I just use my phone if I need a quick reference, with where I work I've got one of those nice water tight cases. If I didn't, I'd go thru more than one phone a year

Update:

took the switch off the bike and brought it inside, took it back apart, re cleaned the connections! just reconnected it back to the KZ and long behold I've got crank again. Finally i can test the compression and determine where to go next!!!!

so on to the other side get the turn signals functioning again.

incase one may be curious: i used a salt/vinegar then baking soda/water bath to re-clean the copper connections.

Thank you all for the advise and info, i defiantly will be around cause it is a restoration project and I'm sure something will stump me as i go along! thanks again!!!