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Starting issues 28 Jul 2015 08:09 #683116

  • KzRyan
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So I am working on getting my Kz to start. I assumed that my starter just died and that would be the solution. After replacing a starter with one I had laying around that i knew worked, I noticed that my turn indicators were both lit up and that my solenoid was clicking when i would try to start. SO i replaced the solenoid with a new one, no change at all. Now i am kind of stumped. I am thinking that its a ground issue but i have no clue why the turn indicators are on all of a sudden. The starter is wired right (it always worked before) and nothing seems out of place. Any ideas or key things that I am missing guys?
1978 Kz1000 A2A. 1040 Weisco 10.25:1 pistons, VM 28ss carbs, Dyna S Ignition and coils, Moto GP Werks exhaust, Ikon Shocks, lithium ion battery, Always a work in progress.

1974 Kz400 - 16K miles - all stock

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Starting issues 28 Jul 2015 09:48 #683124

  • MFolks
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Possibly, wires have rubbed through insulation, energizing not normally used circuits. I'd look at places where flexing may happen like around the steering head, and other places that moves. The front turn signals have a dual filament bulbs, and come on as soon as the ignition switch turn on.

Try this method of troubleshooting:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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Starting issues 29 Jul 2015 12:24 #683326

  • KzRyan
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Excellent, that gives me some work to do on the weekend. So far I have checked the front of the bike: neck, switches and headlight and that is all in order. I have a home made test light with a bulb and an actual test light to use with the battery. When the problem occurred I only had the left side torn apart to get at the starter and i remember now that the starter i replaced with had a slightly different attachment point for the starter cable , so it stretched a little, it is of actually decent shape but that doesn't mean something didn't happen while i was wrenching. And thanks for the comment about the electrical cleaner, i ran out a while ago and have yet to go buy more.
1978 Kz1000 A2A. 1040 Weisco 10.25:1 pistons, VM 28ss carbs, Dyna S Ignition and coils, Moto GP Werks exhaust, Ikon Shocks, lithium ion battery, Always a work in progress.

1974 Kz400 - 16K miles - all stock

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