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Regulator Rectifier 28 Jul 2015 07:35 #683110

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swest wrote: Yup, wires get old just like me. :(
Steve


:huh: My GPS shows 13.7 to 14.0 volts, depending on engine rpms. The battery does seem to be getting a good charge.
How much could the Dynatek 2000 account for a lower voltage reading, as well as the Lowrance GPS that I use to monitor (accurate) speed, time, travel heading, and voltage?
I do notice when switching the headlight from low to high beam, one-tenth volt drops off the reading.
1982 KZ1100-A2

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Regulator Rectifier 28 Jul 2015 07:43 #683111

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Nessism wrote: Put one probe of the voltmeter on the + battery post and the other on the + output wire from your R/R and check voltage. If you are getting more than .25 volts you have losses in your harness. Repeat the same process on the negative side as well.


Should this test be performed while the key is off? Please explain the "negative side" test, where to connect the probes. :unsure:
1982 KZ1100-A2

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Regulator Rectifier 28 Jul 2015 10:27 #683131

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I believe he's talking about a "Voltage Drop Test". One end of meter from posi cable at battery & other end at posi feed (same wire) at R/R. Then again with one end of meter at negative batt cable and other meter end at ground wire at R/R.
It's a good way to verify current carrying capacity of a specific circuit.
Sometimes continuity test don't always work as 1 strand of copper in a multi strand copper core wire will show good continuity but have poor ability to handle current loads.

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Regulator Rectifier 28 Jul 2015 10:28 #683132

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Test can be done key on or off.

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Regulator Rectifier 28 Jul 2015 11:01 #683139

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daveo wrote:

Nessism wrote: Put one probe of the voltmeter on the + battery post and the other on the + output wire from your R/R and check voltage. If you are getting more than .25 volts you have losses in your harness. Repeat the same process on the negative side as well.


Should this test be performed while the key is off? Please explain the "negative side" test, where to connect the probes. :unsure:


I'm not sure if it matters but I did the test with the bike running and charging. Polarity doesn't really matter as long as your meter goes into negative numbers. The idea being that 0 volts is a perfect level. That means no voltage drop in that wire.

While performing this test on my bike I found .5 volts in the positive run feeding the battery. Found a spade terminal for the fuse block was corroded. Cleaned it really well and reduced the loss down to something like .15 volt.

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Regulator Rectifier 28 Jul 2015 17:48 #683195

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Well, seeing as how I'm kind of a suspicious guy I'm not willing to commit just yet & say it's fixed.
I bypassed all the bullet connectors I had & straight wired all 6 wires. To be safe I installed a piece of fusible link in lieu of the factory wire. As it's been idling for 1/2 hr or so, while the module is hot the wires are not.
I'm idling at about 13.4. At 5k it's just barely tipping over 15V (15.05).
Unless anyone has any other suggestions I'm going to put it back together & keep an eye on it.
Although it seems an R/R may be needed in the not too distant future, I'd like to see if I could finish out the season.
I'll try & post back after the weekend to update the status of the repair. (If it'll make it that long) :P

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Regulator Rectifier 28 Jul 2015 17:53 #683197

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FNGCOC wrote: Well, seeing as how I'm kind of a suspicious guy I'm not willing to commit just yet & say it's fixed.
I bypassed all the bullet connectors I had & straight wired all 6 wires. To be safe I installed a piece of fusible link in lieu of the factory wire. As it's been idling for 1/2 hr or so, while the module is hot the wires are not.
I'm idling at about 13.4. At 5k it's just barely tipping over 15V (15.05).
Unless anyone has any other suggestions I'm going to put it back together & keep an eye on it.
Although it seems an R/R may be needed in the not too distant future, I'd like to see if I could finish out the season.
I'll try & post back after the weekend to update the status of the repair. (If it'll make it that long) :P


Wow! I hope you have an industrial fan blowing on the bike's motor. Otherwise it may have already overheated. They are air cooled and won't stay at a reasonable temperature without air blowing across the fins. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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Regulator Rectifier 28 Jul 2015 17:56 #683198

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That and 15.5 volts will boil the battery.
Steve

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Regulator Rectifier 28 Jul 2015 19:01 #683205

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Yes, that higher voltage is why I believe it's not long before an R/R is in order.
Of course money is always tight, especially when there are children to consider. If it happens that I have to sit the rest of the season out, so be it. No matter how much I enjoy riding it's family needs first.
I'll get it back together & go for a nice long ride then recheck voltage. I'll post my findings.

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Regulator Rectifier 29 Jul 2015 08:17 #683296

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If the reg/rec has a brown wire, measure the voltage difference on the brown wire directly. Do this by connecting the black meter lead to the brown wire at the reg/rec, and the red meter lead directly to the battery's positive terminal. That tells you directly, what the drop difference is. Also, measure the voltage on the brown wire using the reg/rec's black wire as ground for the meter. This will tell you if the detection circuit is working properly.

If the brown wire still has 15v or higher, relative to the reg/rec ground, then the reg/rec is bad. Better to replace it sooner than later.
If the brown has 14.0 to 14.5, then it is probably ok. You would then look at the voltage drop on the harness, and try to correct that.
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Regulator Rectifier 29 Jul 2015 13:40 #683336

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Thanks loudhvx. That sounds like a good test. Now it looks like I may not have time to do anything more with it until the weekend.
And yes, I understand & agree that replacement sooner than later is important. I accept that I just may not be able to ride for a few weeks.
i

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Regulator Rectifier 29 Jul 2015 14:34 #683340

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Keep up on the water.
If you are blowing lights, then you know. Might be a faulty ground or connection.
Steve

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