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did you get this sorted out? i just finished reading your entire build thread, and i must say, im truly impressed with your attention to detail.

i know how it can be, getting frustrated when something you have put hundreds of hours, years of work, into doesnt come out perfect... just know that there are very similar people in this world that truly appreciate your dedication!

Tyrell gave great advice above, im good with electrics, but dont have much to add.... i would suggest paying close attention to his suggestion of jumoing the lead (fused) with your own wire.... if you go "around" the bikes wiring with your own, you should be able to figure out rather quickly which section of the wire could be shorted...

A loose or worn ignition switch can cause this. The back can become loose with vibration. It is only swedged on AKA stamped. You can tighten it up with a chisel or 1/4' extension.
Steve

I think I've got it now. The advice in this thread was great and made sense when I read it, but when I tried to apply it I just couldn't manage. Too many questions came up that I couldn't answer. I ended up burning up the insulation on L turn wire The stinky smoke gave me a good clue that there was a problem So after that I decided to replace all the wiring for the turn signals. That is done now and it all seems to be working fine.

As for the hot wires on the main fuse..... I checked resistance thru all that stuff and got zero. In frustration I replaced the wiring to and from the fuse with thicker stuff and it's running a lot cooler now. Little or no heat. some of it was clearly not factory wiring, so coulda been too small I guess.

Only thing left is the warm ignition connector in the headlight bucket. I happened to have a new ign switch with plug so I put that on and it seems a wee bit cooler, but I still don't like it. Any tips on cleaning those tiny little contacts inside the connector? I tried a points file and contact cleaner, but I think they could still be cleaner. Can I take them all out and resolder them? Might be hard to do without damaging.

If you look closely you'll see some small locking tabs on the male side of the connector. With a jewelers screw driver, you can bend them in enough to slip the blade out. Rebend them before you put them back in. Clean them one at a time so they won't get mixed up.
Steve

I've done that on some others in the past. these ones are soooo tiny! seems like aking for trouble, but I guess I better do it

Z1E has them.
Steve

Glad you are on your way to sorting this out.

Did you check your ignition switch resistance?

Maybe try 'hot wiring' the bike bypassing the ignition switch, see if that does it.

This is what you need , OEM factory Hitachi latched miniblock connectors, 2,3,4,6,9 way
comes with terminals, most crimpers will do it, no solder required. You might have one pin corroded.

You can also pull the terminals out, they are latched so a tiny flat blade screwdriver in the absense of the right tool will do it.



Nice build 'fighter build BTW Nelson, the graphics was a nice idea .


Electrics can be a bit of a head fucker, keep at it mate

thanks. the new switch replaces 1 side of that plug, so I only have to clean the other side. I will try taking it apart soon. yeah, my bike looks about like that right now! Like it's being attacked by wires.