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1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 14 Feb 2015 20:21 #661654

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1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 14 Feb 2015 21:12 #661658

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If the 1977 KZ1000 charging system is like the 1977 KZ650 charging system I don't think that SHINDENGEN combination rectifier/regulator will work. The reason is that even though the '77 KZ650 has a 3-phase system it is unlike the later KZ models that use a 3-phase system. The '77 KZ650 uses an "excited field" system that has a 4th wire running from the generator to the regulator. In the SHINDENGEN diagram I don't see a provision for hooking up that 4th wire.

I don't know that the '77 KZ1000 system is the same as the '77 KZ650 system, so it may not be an issue, but it is worth researching just to be sure before making a purchase. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 15 Feb 2015 08:28 #661672

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The 77 Kz1000 uses a permanent magnet alternator with separate regulator and rectifier.
The 77 Kz650 uses an excited field alternator with separate regulator and rectifier.
The 79 Kz1000 uses a permanent magnet alternator with a combination regulator/rectifier.

You can put a shunt-type, or series-pass-type regulator/rectifier combo on the 77 Kz1000, but you must remove both the original rectifier and original regulator.

Normally, you would put a combo reg/rec in place of the original rectifier, as that will have the wires necessary to handle the power output from the reg/rec.

But, you may have to alter the wiring depending on whether the new reg/rec needs a "sense line". That is a wire that some regulators use to sense the system voltage. That wire is almost always brown on Kz's. The wiring for the original rectifier usually won't have that brown wire, but the wiring for the original regulator will have it. So you would extend that brown wire from the original regulator over to the new reg/rec.

Interestingly, on the 77 Kz1000 wiring diagram, they show a brown wire dead-ending at the rectifier (but not actually connected to it) so you may be in luck if there is a brown wire there already. It may be Kawasaki was in the process of converting over to a combo reg/rec, and wanted to have the wiring in place. But it may also just be a mistake on the wiring drawing.

If the new reg/rec combo only has 5 wires (3-yellows, a black, and a red (or maybe a white)), then you don't need to worry about the brown wire. (Just don't let the brown wire on the harness come into contact with any ground, as it is live 12v when the bike is on.)
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1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 15 Feb 2015 08:35 #661673

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According to Rick's the proper rectifier/regulator they have for the 77 has 7 wires...there are three going to the rectifier and 4 at the regulator.

Everything I do on this is a learning experience, but then I'm no bike mechanic. The only reason I'm replacing the voltage regulator is to be sure I've gotten rid of all my gremlins. I am also replacing my coils and plug wires. My bike has had issues with a couple of cylinders seemingly running rich. I had the carbs cleaned once and it ran like brand new for about 4 hours, then back to the same old problem. I couldn't get anybody to adjust my valves and after 10,000 miles, they probably needed to be adjusted; they hadn't been adjusted since the initial warranty adjustment at 500 miles I think it was. So, I did it myself, yeah I messed up but, I know how to do it now and pretty quickly.

The shop I took it to decided to tear my bike down and see if what I did was correct and they found that what I had done was good. That should be on them. But, they hadn't been paying their rent and got the boot. The owner should have let me know, it's not like he didn't know he was way behind on his rent when he took my bike in. At any rate I got most of my stuff back and now have to clean it all up, re-install the carbs after buying, top cover gaskets, boot clamps, battery holder bolts, new fuel lines and filters and then a new battery. His mechanic made off with my Klymers manual, that I let them use too. Once I get it all back together I'll still need to get the carbs synced and properly jetted, that's why I took it to the shop in the first place. IN the mean time I've got another sweet ride, a 2006 Honda CBR1000-RR...when I'm done with the KZ one of the two bikes will get sold.





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1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 15 Feb 2015 08:38 #661674

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What's a 750E? and what year is it?
Original owner of a stock, 1977 KZ1000-LTD

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1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 15 Feb 2015 08:43 #661675

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Thanks for your information, loudhvx...this is exactly what I am intending to do. But as is usual I ran into a seller that didn't know what he was selling and had it listed wrong. He's sending me the right set up and I'm sending him back the wrong one. The rectifier he sent is for '79-'80...
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Last edit: by Yowman. Reason: inserted who I'm replying to

1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 15 Feb 2015 08:46 #661676

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Thanks for the real information...it's hard to come by on these forums. I usually have to wade through a bunch of BS before getting a real answer.

loudhvx wrote: The 77 Kz1000 uses a permanent magnet alternator with separate regulator and rectifier.
The 77 Kz650 uses an excited field alternator with separate regulator and rectifier.
The 79 Kz1000 uses a permanent magnet alternator with a combination regulator/rectifier.

You can put a shunt-type, or series-pass-type regulator/rectifier combo on the 77 Kz1000, but you must remove both the original rectifier and original regulator.

Normally, you would put a combo reg/rec in place of the original rectifier, as that will have the wires necessary to handle the power output from the reg/rec.

But, you may have to alter the wiring depending on whether the new reg/rec needs a "sense line". That is a wire that some regulators use to sense the system voltage. That wire is almost always brown on Kz's. The wiring for the original rectifier usually won't have that brown wire, but the wiring for the original regulator will have it. So you would extend that brown wire from the original regulator over to the new reg/rec.

Interestingly, on the 77 Kz1000 wiring diagram, they show a brown wire dead-ending at the rectifier (but not actually connected to it) so you may be in luck if there is a brown wire there already. It may be Kawasaki was in the process of converting over to a combo reg/rec, and wanted to have the wiring in place. But it may also just be a mistake on the wiring drawing.

If the new reg/rec combo only has 5 wires (3-yellows, a black, and a red (or maybe a white)), then you don't need to worry about the brown wire. (Just don't let the brown wire on the harness come into contact with any ground, as it is live 12v when the bike is on.)

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1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 15 Feb 2015 08:48 #661677

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I edited my post, above, to clarify the wiring a little (but you have it all in your quote, now). But 7 wires would not be necessary. If it has 7 wires, then one or two of them are redundant, and it may be that Rick's is just trying to make the unit plug and play, so there is no fumbling around with splicing brown wires etc.

Do you have a diagram or photo of the Rick's unit you want to use?

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Last edit: by loudhvx.

1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 15 Feb 2015 08:51 #661678

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Here's my colorized version of the wiring 77/78 Kz1000 B1/B2.

edit
Crap it won't let me upload a pdf. I'll post a jpg version in a few minutes.

If you save it to your computer, or open it in a new tab, you can zoom in and see more detail.

edit, again
Arrghh! Kzrider is automatically making it smaller. Saving it will let you see it a little bigger, but it's still only about 1/2 the original size. Hopefully it is big enough.

edit, yet again
I posted the full size pdf in the filebase.
kzrider.com/filebase/viewcategory/19-kz1000
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Last edit: by loudhvx.

1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 15 Feb 2015 09:50 #661680

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Yowman wrote: What's a 750E? and what year is it?


KZ750E from 1981.

I didn't bother to try to sort out the factory wires. Just wire the stator directly into the R/R. I used one of those Triumph harness jumpers and soldered the ends straight to the stator. Only time you need to tie back into the factory harness is when sending power out of the R/R and over to the fusebox.

The SH-775 is a vastly superior unit compared to a shunt R/R since again, it protects your stator. The reason stators burn out is because excess power your bike doesn't consume is shunted back to the stator itself, which causes the stator to run needlessly hot. A series R/R keeps the extra current away from the stator. It's not any more expensive than a Chinese shunt R/R so why not go the extra yard?

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1977 KZ1000-LTD rectifier question 15 Feb 2015 19:39 #661731

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loudhvx wrote: I edited my post, above, to clarify the wiring a little (but you have it all in your quote, now). But 7 wires would not be necessary. If it has 7 wires, then one or two of them are redundant, and it may be that Rick's is just trying to make the unit plug and play, so there is no fumbling around with splicing brown wires etc.

Do you have a diagram or photo of the Rick's unit you want to use?


I don't yet...if your go to Ricks Motorsport Electronics and do the search on a 1977 KZ1000 you can see it. I have to send the Model 10-306 back and then they'll send me the right one which is the model 10-515.
Original owner of a stock, 1977 KZ1000-LTD

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