TOPIC:

I'm new to the kz site and I'm looking for advise I have a 78 kz650 sr the bike is bear bones no lights or anything. just a stator reg./rect. coils and a tether. I use it for grass drags and ice drags. All ways ran good winter and summer I wanted to remove the battery so I ordered a battery eliminate kit "capacitor" from ebay wired it up and now I have no spark at the coils and those did before the change over.It know has spark on only one of the points when I kick it over. I'm wondering if I need to covert to 3 phase for more power?

I don't know, but maybe try searching KZR for capacitor or batteryless & note any replies by loudhvx.

Are you absolutely positive the engine is a 1978? Take a look at the images below. If your generator cover looks like the one with the 3 red circles it is a 1977. If that is the case, it will not run without a battery. The 2nd image is that of a 1978 generator cover. Ed

Yeah my cover matches the lower picture 1978

Your photo shows a headlight. It won't start with the headlight connected. You can run a headlight, but it must be switched on after the bike is running, and may require a rev before you switch it on since it will momentarily kill the spark while the filament heats up.

If you truly have no lights, make sure there are no extra electrical loads anywhere, like a hidden flasher relay etc. You also want to make sure it can start on all four cylinders, in one kick, pretty reliably with the battery. If it's difficult to start at all with the battery, it will be more difficult without the battery.

The battery eliminator is just a capacitor. Do you know what size it is (capacitance and voltage)?

If the single-phase stator and regulator are working properly, I doubt it's a power issue if you are truly not running any lights. A 3-phase system will give more power, but will be overkill if not using a headlight. This will result in the regulator having to dump more power, which means it will run much hotter than it was intended to do.

Make sure the dwell on the ignition is set to just under 180 degrees to prevent dwell overlap. The factory spec is right around 180 degrees, if I recall, so you want to set it just under. That means set the points to a slightly wider gap than the factory setting. Do all this with the battery to make sure it starts easily, then try the capacitor in place of the battery.

Just got home and I checked the points and hooked up the battery and still have the same issues. The head light is just for looks. lol I'll have to find out what the ohmn readings should be maybe I have some bad parts in there.Thanks for the help