TOPIC:

swest...

yes all done already.....
evening check charging system wish at 4K rpm is at 15v..Normal is between 15 and 20 according to the manuel.
thx

spdygon wrote: Need some direction.....

bout a 79kz1000ltd about two weeks ago because of the engine.
engine is built to a 1198cc with Z4 cams and 29mm
it also has a electronic ignition ( Dyna S ) and Nology high output coils.
Battery fully charge.
#2 CYLINDER RUN AT AROUND 260 DEGREES WILL THE OTHERS RUN AT AROUND 450 DEGRESS
also check the spark and its very lite compare to the other big brite spark.
So this is what i have done.....
1...clean crabs
2...sycronize carbs
3...new plug
4...switch plus wires
5...switch coil
6...check compression...all between 140 and 150 open throttle
7...check niddle movement
8...check main ( 132.5 ) and pilot ( 25 ) air ( 1.5 out )
#1..#3..#4 plug burn like they should( greyish tip... except #2 plug tip is black and little wet
ran out of time tonite.....need ideas what to check for tomorrow

Have you checked the valve adjustment? Vacum leak? Sounds like you've checked everything else.
Steve

I got papaer work with the bike. owner use to take it to RedLine Cycle. last time they check valves was in 2013.
all valve were at .006 and .007.
how do i check for vacuum leaks?

ok....change out the coils( originals from my 77kz1000a) and proform the plug spark test as Patton suggusted.
both plugs had the same spark..so went aheadand proform the clear tube test again and was fine.
like i said before motor does not idle under 1800rpm or it will slowly die.

so looks like i may have a vacuum leak but wear to start is the question...it has to be in carb #2 right?

Carb Holder Air Leak Test....

You should check the carb holders for leaks. They will eventually develop tiny cracks in the mating surfaces between the holders and the cylinder head that can cause them to leak at idle. These cracks cannot be seen with the carb holders in place. I suggest you try the following. Get the engine warmed up and temporarily set the idle as low as possible without killing the engine (lower than 900 rpm if possible). The lower the better because with the idle very low the slides are nearly shut and the vacuum inside the carb holders is at its highest. Then spray carb cleaner around the carb holders, especially where they mate with the cylinder head and where the carbs attach to them. Carb cleaner works best for this test as it doesn't leave an oily mess with WD40 or evaporate so quickly that it is not drawn into the leaks as can happen with propane or starting fluid (ether). If the engine dies or reacts to the carb cleaner, you need to replace the carb holders. Carb holder leak related problems are noticeable at idle but generally don't have much impact when riding because the throttle is open. If you find you need to replace the carb holders soak the screws with Kroil for a couple days before attempting to remove them, and use JIS standard, NOT Phillips, screwdriver bits, and this will greatly improve the odds that you will not break or strip a carb holder fastener as so many have done. Let me know if you need info on JIS bits, I have a good link for making your own at no cost.

Another vacuum leak procedure:
Finding a leak with an UNLIT Propane Torch

Would expect #2 carb holder air leakage to produce a leaner mixture as evidenced by the #2 plug reading -- not the richer mixture as on the #2 spark plug at hand.

Good Fortune!

Using stock air filter? or the somewhat unpopular "Pods"? Air filter(s) clean?

Could be over compensating for the idle circuit not working. I don't think that's the problem.
Steve

If not already done, would assure that pilot air jet BS30-97 is clean and clear.




Reportedly, the fitment with some brands of pods may obstruct the pilot air intake on certain carb models.
If pods are fitted, would assure that the pod isn't obstructing the pilot air jet.

Good Fortune!

with holidays around had some time to look at the carbs. found the two inner air jets to be stuck and maybe broken at the on one side. can not turn them out. did spray cleaner and it came out the other end.
the good....
*tried out my 26mm from my 77kz1000. got the #2 cylinder to fire correctly.
*i now know it a carb problem
the bad....two set of carbs need rebuild
where can i find a rebuilt kit for the 29mm smooth bore..i already have one for the 26.
is there some one that can clean and rebuilt them?

spdygon wrote: with holidays around had some time to look at the carbs. found the two inner air jets to be stuck and maybe broken at the on one side. can not turn them out. did spray cleaner and it came out the other end.
the good....
*tried out my 26mm from my 77kz1000. got the #2 cylinder to fire correctly.
*i now know it a carb problem
the bad....two set of carbs need rebuild
where can i find a rebuilt kit for the 29mm smooth bore..i already have one for the 26.
is there some one that can clean and rebuilt them?

Do you have a pic of the 29's?