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after testing starter solenoid/ bridging or hot 05 Nov 2014 16:02 #652964

  • muffinsmannkz750n
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...i like an idiot tried bridging terminals on starter solenoid/testing for loss in starting voltage or bypassing ....now i have no eletrics at all ...so far replaced fuse 30 amp..battery is fully charged..and yet when i turn key no nothing at all.. please help ...

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after testing starter solenoid/ bridging or hot 05 Nov 2014 16:17 #652965

  • azman857
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What year/model bike do you have? I'd check the wiring to make sure all the connectors are fully connected. I've even undone them and reconnected them to make sure the contacts are clean. Is the fuse holder in good shape? Key switch working as it should? Check the loom for shorts/ rubbing against the frame to wear thru the wires.
I don't have a plan and I'm sticken' to it! '77 KZ 650 / 750 GPz custom project in progress

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after testing starter solenoid/ bridging or hot 07 Nov 2014 21:00 #653198

  • Tyrell Corp
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if you search here there was a guy with a gpz750 recently with a similar problem and i wrote up a diagnostic on it...
1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces
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after testing starter solenoid/ bridging or hot 14 Nov 2014 01:15 #653661

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..yes thank you..i traced my problem wire >black yellow..tore through wiring harness replaced same wire.checked continuity to all liked connections/wire ends..man in places that wire blew up!..re _wrapped wiring loom..now left with task of which way to coils?..had the wired george mod up ..though im thinking back to 82 standard..xcept i now have dynas pickup s since my rubbers were not on my advance timing unit..anyone able to explain wiring ..using stock coils with black green leads..then red >two leads..i am rightly stuck ..and confused when electrics come in to play..
thanks in advance

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after testing starter solenoid/ bridging or hot 14 Nov 2014 08:28 #653684

  • MFolks
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Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different).

Read carefully, as the 550’s, 650’s, 700’s & 750’s are backwards to what is listed for the bigger 4’s.

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod. Your primary wiring may have a different color.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs. The RED wire is common to both ignition coils.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS(5000), any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered. When re-installing the old or new sparkplug caps, cut about ¼” off the sparkplug wires for a new un-corroded connection.

Never run supression sparkplug wires with sparkplug caps containing the 5000 ohm resistor, as now there will be two (2) resistances in the ignition coil’s secondary circuit, causing weak and intermittent spark.


To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.
Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s, 650‘s,700’s, and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

An indication of black and sooty sparkplugs may not mean a carb or carbs are in need of cleaning, but may mean the input voltage is low.

When checking the input voltage to the ignition coils, first have a fully charged battery, and the using a multimeter, set it up to measure VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

Put the RED probe from the multimeter on the same terminal that either a RED wire or ones that’s RED with YELLOW stripe, and the BLACK probe on either a good frame/Earth ground or the battery Negative(-) terminal/post.

Depending on the motorcycles current draw( lighting, and other high amp needs) the reading might be 10 volts or more, but if the reading is down around 8 volts or less, this indicates a corrosion or wiring problem needs correcting to improve input voltage to the coils.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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after testing starter solenoid/ bridging or hot 14 Nov 2014 10:13 #653692

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..i wish my mind could see the way that those who understand this >electrics..just when i get that AhHAA ,moment everything about the circuit goes cloudy in its understanding..i am so frustrated at this blockage of mine/d
okay so here goes how about with georges wired mod..with the dyna ds2-2 pickups.paired to stock coils.on an 82 kz750n1?..put a new starter solenoid /relay switch onher only to burn up harness..now i am completely freaked out on smoking it again...thanx in advance y'all

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