TOPIC:

So I was riding my kawasaki kz650 the other day when suddenly while i was riding the engine died just like that. i pulled to the side of the road and there was absolutely no power either. After hauling the bike back home i checked all my wires to make sure everything was connected, took the battery to autozone and they said it was fine. As far as i can tell the regulator is alright (checked with a multimeter).
I have no idea whats wrong. my bike is completely dead. My best guess is that i need need ignition coils but why would that cause engine shut down AND electrical shut down.
Just wanting some clarity. What would cause both electrical and engine failier?

Thanks

Check the main fuse.

Then, if your wiring is still inside the handle bars, see if there is a short in there.

I'm betting loudhvx nailed it. It's going to be a bad fuse. Keep in mind, you cannot always tell if the fuse is blown just by looking at it. When the glass-tube type fuses get really old vibration and age can cause the filament to break free from one of the metal end caps. When this happens the fuse looks fine even though it breaks the connection. Guess how I know this. Either check the fuses with a meter or better yet replace them all. Ed

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by using a multimeter to check for voltage going through the fuse, or when the fuse is removed for physical inspection for tight end caps & continuity checks,can it be determined if it’s serviceable.

5. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

6. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

7. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

8. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net/store/6!way-fuse-blocks/p_10822.a_1

www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Product...ers/fuseholders.html

www.autowiringsolutions.com/item.php?item_id=251&category_id=89 (ATO/ATC Fuse Holder)


9. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html

www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?N...&D=AGX&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

+1 to replace all fuses.

Also: when my bike would just randomly go dead while riding it turned out to be the ignition switch.....

(ME) "WOW! It's like somebody just switched off the ignition switch..... wait a minute........"

Yea, fuse first, probably burned at the end from heat from bad fuse clips. Burnt wire melted off ignition switch from bad connection another possibility. I can't imagine what would have happened in 1978 if we had all the recalls we do taday. The fuse setup in the KZs should have been recalled in 1973 but they continued for years and years with this deathtrap design.

I had a solder joint go bad on the kill switch on my KZ900 - killed everything.

The factory soldering left a lot to be desired. If possible, open up the left and right handlebar switch "Pods", looking for failed, or failing solder joints. These can be cleaned up, but don't use a soldering iron larger than 25 watts, as the heat from the iron may do damage to the plastic parts, requiring you to buy a new assembly.

bountyhunter wrote: +1 to replace all fuses.

Also: when my bike would just randomly go dead while riding it turned out to be the ignition switch.....

(ME) "WOW! It's like somebody just switched off the ignition switch..... wait a minute........"

I'm with BountyHunter on this one. Just cleaned my ignition switch a few weeks ago for the same problem. Total system failure all due to dirty contacts. Thorough cleaning, lube, and reassembly solved the entire problem and brightened everything up too.

This also happened to me this summer. It was the ignition switch.

Same here... ignition switch. Before that it was a solder joint in the kill switch. Looking to upgrade (replace w/new) these this winter. Anybody know if the generic style control switches all over squee bay and sites like Dime City are easily adapted to our bikes?