TOPIC:

So going through my build and it seems the PO bought the green 3 ohm but still ran the stock 5 ohm system.

What makes the 3 ohm dyna 2000 system better than stock?

OHMs law. Less resistance/higher amperage -- hotter spark. But not a hell-of-a-lot of difference on a street ride.

Autotech2 is correct.

You can go up to the 3.0ohm teal or green coils with the Dyna 2000 to get strongest spark. 3.0 ohm is as high as they would like you to go.

You can use the gray 2.2ohm coils with the Dyna2000 with no problems as that's what I've been using for years with mine. The installation paper states 2.2 or 3.0ohm (either/or).

Later, Doug

Like Doug, when I ordered the Dyna 2000, coils & wires, from Dynatek, many moons ago, they recommended & sent me the gray coils

Ohms are not the whole story. Inductance plays a role in spark energy. Higher inductance results in higher potential energy storage. Higher ohm coils often also have higher inductance, so you can have high-resistance coils which will actually provide higher spark energy, given the dwell is long enough. Low resistance coils also usually have low inductance, so when given long dwell, the extra energy is just wasted as heat, rather than stored as magnetism and later released as spark energy, as a high resistance coil would.

For stock motors, when the dwell is at a fixed long angle, you would want a high-resistance, high-inductance coil. When it's a short, fixed angle, you want a low-resistance, low-inductance coil.

For high-compression motors, or two-stroke motors, or even if the spark gap is opened up a lot, you may want higher voltage at the expense of higher energy, much like a CDI gives.

Since the Dyna 2000 probably has digital dwell control, using whatever coils Dyna recommends is the way to go.

Ohms are lower in electronic ignitions for more than one reason:

1) Kawi electrics have a "ground side" transistor switch in the coil path which has a couple of volts drop across it, so to get the equivalent coil primary current, they reduce the impedance.

2) Electronic igs reduce the "duty cycle" (average time current flows in the coil) compared to a points ignition. So, they can run a lower resistance coil with the same or lower average coil current (which determines dissipated power).

It is correct that the energy stored in the coil proportional to inductance as given by 1/2 L (I) squared. But, there is a maximum feasible inductance value as set by the:

V = L dI/dT

law which means the applied voltage (12V) can only force the current to rise at a given rate set by the inductance. So the coil resistance sets the maximum current that can flow through the coil, but the inductance defines how fast the current can change. The inductance has to be low enough so that at maximum working RPM, the coil primary can still reach the full primary current and store full energy.

The stock ignition coils don't reach full current saturation at high RPM, as a matter of fact, by redline, they don't even reach 1/2 of the saturation current, so that is where low Z coils would possibly be beneficial, but at idle, they would be wasteful with stock, or most cheaper aftermarket ignitions. A fully dwell-controlled ignition would be better, but usually cost much more.

So is the dyna 2000 the best set up for kz1000?

DobbinsCMA wrote: So is the dyna 2000 the best set up for kz1000?

If you need to advance/retard the ignition curve, need a rev limiter, or an ignition kill for shifting, then yes....if you want a reliable ignition then just get the DynaS. But that's just my opinion, I could be wrong.

Later, Doug

The nice thing about the Dyna 2000 is you can Ignition time 1-4 and 2-3 separately, unlike the Dyna-S.

Also the ignition advance is done digitally via microchip and not though an spring loaded advancer that needs maintained and can become worn and faulty.

The only draw back that I can see is: the cost, not cheap at almost $430 if coils are needed,,,,,, but worth every penny in my book.

www.z1enterprises.com/ShopByCategory.asp...ns&category=01041202

My bike starts, idles and runs so much better its really is beyond words.

There have been reliability issues reported with the Dyna 2000, as well as the Dyna S.
The Dyna 2000 does a lot the factory ignition cannot do, but the tradeoff is cost.
The Dyna S is inexpensive, but less than ideal for the KZ in terms of efficiency (and requires purchasing different coils). The factory ignition seems to be statistically more reliable as well, based on the 14 or 15 years of being on this board.

For a stock motor, on a street driven bike, in my opinion, the factory ignition is the best compromise all around.