TOPIC:

I think a combination of issues, so started from scratch
retested stator, and reg/rec validated readings
so re charged battery - holding 12.64volts

removed the wiring, and new reg/rec re did joiners by soldering them rather than connectors into the old rec white plug, validated connections all correct

re insulated the stator wires, checked, connected it to original blue connector AC 15 volts idle, 60 at 4K revs
and then tested to white female side - getting AC 15 volts idle, 60 at 4K revs -spot on

so all should work when connecting the reg/rec into the white connector as all tests correct

started bike, tester on battery at idle DC 11,78 volts thats better, rev to 4K and get 13 volts

that will do me
all sorted thank you all your help

kiwibiker wrote: Hi I have been scanning a number of Forums for days, have some answers but, nothing concrete

So to the details:
I have a 1978 D1 z1000 Z1R, US spec imported to UK, is it the model with the block connectors under the right hand side Panel, Blue is for the Stator and Green for Rectifier (RR), seems charging is ok but battery dies,
so went for an aftermarket rectifier advertised to as replacement for Z1R has the correct number of wires (5) see pic, my original see pic has 5 wires also, being black, green, brown, yellow, pink, to make it simple I cut
and patched the new RR wires into the original green block connector,

Connecting:
The Black to the Black wire on the new RR and connecting to the single free black wire on bike, as thought this was earth
The Brown to the Red wire on the new RR as thought this was positive into block connector
The Pink Yellow Green to the 3 Yellows on the new RR in block connector as I have read it needs 3 yellows which are for sensing, signalling

So the Question is this right
I don’t think so as it has not worked and now when the new RR is connected via the green block connector, the ignition key does not turn the motor off once running, I have to use the kill switch, if I remove the rr connection the ignition switch works

What wires should I join to what to make it work
Eg black to black, ….. brown to red etc

Any help greatly appreciated

I'll go back and read the rest of this thread, but from this, you removed the regulator, and replaced it with a rectifier. That won't work.
EDIT: I see you figured that part out.

I hope it's working, but 13v still seems too low at 4k revs.

It depends on the load, battery,etc. You don't want 14 volts constant. That would boil out the battery. It could read 14 volts at a full charge meaning the AMPS are up to limit. As it ages the high limit will degrade. If it holds 12 volts or less, the battery is shot and could tax the charging system too much causing failure of components.
Steve

I don't know where you got that rectifier but, according to Rick's Motorsport electrics. there should be 7 wires. 3 from the original rectifier and 4 from the regulator. With 7 wire you can cut off the plugs from your original set-up and splice the new ones in.

I was sent a wrong rectifier that is for 79-80 models and it only has five wires...check the thread I started yesterday...

the new is a combined reg/rec, so only needs the earth, positive and 3 wires from stator (yellow) to work rather than the additional other to pink green it think

everything is working find, I am getting more than 13 volts, max is 14.5 which is correct as far as I can tell
Reg/rec not getting to hot

a number of posts suggest the same as a fix

I guess time will tell

swest wrote: It depends on the load, battery,etc. You don't want 14 volts constant. That would boil out the battery. It could read 14 volts at a full charge meaning the AMPS are up to limit. As it ages the high limit will degrade. If it holds 12 volts or less, the battery is shot and could tax the charging system too much causing failure of components.
Steve

These motorcycle regulators are pretty simple devices. They simply limit the alternator output to regulate the voltage. Normally that limit is over 14v. As long as the alternator can produce the power, the voltage will just go up to that limit (average voltage, that is). The regulator does not sense the current to the battery, it simply senses system voltage and limits it. I agree you don't want to over-current the battery, but the regulator does not guard against that. It simply limits voltage. If the battery is dead or shorted, it may draw more current than the alternator can supply (in addition to the rest of the bike's load), so the voltage may not go up to the limit. But this is due to alternator limitation, not regulator action.

sounds spot on, particularity if the lights are permanently on as on this particular bike

Good thread glad you seem to be getting there. Agreed, Lou 13 v seems a touch low at 4k.

14 volts plus is pretty standard charging voltage on any 12 v vehicle system, it needs a bit higher to create a charging current.

Old school regulators just work as on/off switches, charging the battery when the voltage drops due to current demand, dumping it when not needed. Alternators in cars and trucks are controlled by powering the field coils, old school bikes with permanent magnet rotors are just 'on' all the time.

Your alternator output srrms ok. System Voltage is set by the regulator's voltage stabiliser circuit , you might also be getting a volt drop due to bad connectors. Do all tests with a charged battery.