TOPIC:

Hello, I'm working on a 1983 kz750 spectre and I've got an issue with my rear turn signals. I've cleaned the rust off and the lightbulbs themselves work fine, but for some reason I'm not getting any current through the positive wire leading to these rear turn signals. The ground is fine, I checked it against the battery with a voltmeter. However, when I measure the positive wire against the battery ground, I get 0V. I've checked the wiring harness for chewed wires but all seems intact. Has anyone had this problem before? Could fuses be the issue? They are pretty old.

Color Codes On Most Kawasaki’s (written for 1980’s bikes)

HEADLIGHT
RED with BLACK stripe, High Beam.
RED with YELLOW stripe, Low Beam.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

BRAKE/TAIL LIGHT Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
RED, Running or Tail Light.
BLUE,(sometimes with a Red stripe) Brake Light Circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1157 dual filament bulb
GREEN, Left front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Left front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
GREY, Right front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Right front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREEN, Left rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREY, Right rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

I'd trace back to the turn signal switch, looking for corrosion, or failed solder joint, also replace the silver can type flasher, as they go bad. Auto parts stores carry an electronic type that can be used with LED's if you later change to them.

I also change my bikes fuses yearly(before the riding season) as vibration ,and current surges may weaken them. AGX is the size you'll need. Probably 10,15, and maybe 20 amp ratings.

Alright, I will update once I have
1)replaced fuses
2)traced the wiring harness back to the turn signal control unit
3)replaced the flasher relays

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationUpdate:

1) I haven't found the right 10A and 30A AGX fuses at a nearby store. Might have to order mine online. So far I've tested the resistance of the fuses I'm using and they seem to be around 1-2ohms. At least they're not blown, making them usable but not recommended.
2)Traced the wiring back to the left control handlebar unit. I opened it up and there was lots of rust and some re-soldering to do. I put the wires back together as best as I could.
3) I replaced the old flasher relays with one of these www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=372987 from autozone.

In the end the rear signals still don't work and the front left signal gets brighter when I flip the turn signal switch but does not flash. I'm thinking of getting a known working left control unit from ebay like so:

I'd also replace the bulbs, with known good ones, as age, vibration & voltage surges may weakened them.

Dawg, if I were you for about 10.00 -15.00 more you can get a new left hand control, that used one on E-bay could be as bad as yours, or worse
Pete

Hi Pete, I wasn't able to find on multiple websites a new OEM left hand control at that price. Do you have a link?

So I ordered a used left bar control unit off ebay and the turn signals and hazards work now! The work isn't over though because now the bike won't start. ahh geez. Gonna have lunch and figure that out.

I have the same issue with my signals. Did you resolve the issue?

After checking the wiring by working back from the signals to the handlebar control unit I decided that my issue might be rust in the handlebar switches and the wiring inside. I ended up buying a used handlebar control off of ebay and right after swapping the parts my turn signals worked.

I would suggest starting with checking your signals have a good contact to ground and then also making sure the wires aren't chewed up and actually run continuously from the switches to the turn signal lights. If you have a manual I found that the wiring diagrams were useful.

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.